"leftoverair" <exposezure@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:97115a09-a6c1-4999-afd6-74e4c72016e2@c60g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> hello good people-
>
> after 30mi of highway driving the gages ceased to work, followed by
> the engine hesitating/bucking then stalling. 20mins later she started
> up & i made it home. the next day this happened three other times
> while only driving several miles.
>
> here's the low down:
> -old battery was tested at 12v during idle w/ no load. (haven't tested
> new battery)
> -alternator tested at 15v at local auto parts store.
> -fusible link is still flexible. (not sure what reading i should be
> getting with volt meter)
>
> aside from checking/cleaning ground wire on the engine, i'm not sure
> what else to do.
>
> i would really appreciate input from the gurus out there.
>
> thanks!

Battery should test at least 14 volts at idle. If you read 12V at idle,
your alternator is shot, despite it testing good at the local parts store.

My alternator failed in August, the first replacement was bad, too.
The 2nd replacement was ok. Both the original and the 1st replacement
tested just fine at the local Auto Zone, and the guy followed the test
procedure precisely.

When the system voltage drops below 11.5 volts, everything starts
acting weird, starting with the instrument cluster & radio. The best
thing to is to shut off everything electrical, including the headlights
if possible, and limp home fast as possible. With a strong enough
battery, there's enough reserve to restart a warm engine after a short
recovery period.

Clean the battery posts and cables, making sure to check for crap
under the plastic shields. The ends are easily replaceable if they're
badly corroded. Also check the B+ connection on the back of the
alternator for a good connection.

If, after cleaning, the voltage measured at idle at the battery is still
less than 14V, replace the alternator.

Bob