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Old 10-07-2008, 12:30 PM
Jerry.PeruMotors@gmail.com
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Default Re: 98 Jimmy front axel leaking

On Oct 7, 12:24*am, "Tim" <T...@askme.net> wrote:
> 160,000 miles on it and I hope to keep it for a while. I am living on
> disability. It is a big leak and needs to be fixed. My neighbor has a lift
> but he has never done anything like this before. It is the front left side
> axel that is leaking. I have changed wheel bearing hubs before. The concern
> I have is do we need to take the steering knuckle off to install a new seal?
> My Haynes book does not really mention the seal repair.
>
> The part is only $14.00.
>
> <Jerry.PeruMot...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:5df2578a-4b62-4cc7-80dc-6284429cc58d@64g2000hsu.googlegroups.com...
> On Oct 6, 5:24 pm, "Tim" <T...@askme.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Filled it up and noise went away. Leak is from the left (short) side
> > output
> > axel. Got a better quote of $150 and another at $270.

>
> > "Steve W." <csr...@yahoo.com> wrote in
> > messagenews:1223306232_3472@isp.n...
> > > Tim wrote:
> > >> Didn't think I would be back so soon asking for advise after the Buick
> > >> coolant leak but here I am.

>
> > >> 98 GMC Jimmy 4WD. I took it in to a oil change place to have them check
> > >> the oil level on the rear end. I had seen some oil back there and
> > >> thought
> > >> it might need a little. It was fine but they said the front axel was
> > >> leaking on the drivers side. They filled it and after setting overnight
> > >> I
> > >> have oil on the drive. It has had a growling noise for a long time but
> > >> I
> > >> figured it was the normal. I have replace the wheel bearing hubs many
> > >> times and they are fine.

>
> > >> What should I look for and any help with how to replace these would
> > >> greatly be appreciated. I called some repair shops to get a ball park
> > >> idea of how much and got unseen price ranging from $250 to $1,000's
> > >> (that's what he said).

>
> > >> TIA

>
> > > The leak is likely from the seal around the output shaft for the front
> > > half-shaft, or from the housing itself. Seals in both places. The output
> > > shaft seal isn't hard to replace, but if if the seal is bad then it is
> > > very possible that the bushing inside the housing is bad as well. That
> > > isn't as easy to change with the differential installed. It can be done
> > > but it is easier with it out. That is what the different prices cover..
> > > They probably also tossed in some extra for possible parts damage from
> > > the
> > > "growl" that could be bad carrier bearings or worse.

>
> > > --
> > > Steve W.
> > > Near Cooperstown, New York

>
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>
> Tim-assuming that the 98 Jimmy doesn't have 7,000 miles on it or is it
> a 'trailored' show vehicle...(no disrespect intended) I would monitor
> the usage/leakage. *Many 'oil change places' make mocho money pointing
> out things that.....well lets leave it at that. *If the noise is gone-
> I'd watch it, check it weekly(depending on mileage) and see. *Allittle
> 80-90 every so often may be more cost effective than the repair.
> Usage will dictate whether or not the repair needs doing at all. *Get
> your 15mm box wrench or socket ready to pull the check plug and let us
> know! JP


yes, if it is the left outer shaft seal you will have to dis-assemble
all-knuckle and all to get at it. Good luck! Check out lower ball
joint looseness while there-you'll never be closer/easier to do! JP
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