in article
f0d4369b-f68d-4920-be82-457272e4870d...oglegroups.com,
SPMcClellan@gmail.com at SPMcClellan@gmail.com wrote on 7/4/08 9:43 AM:

> The engine was soaked in oil, so I will get some contact cleaner and
> go through the connections cleaning them all.


that is just so you can get a voltage meter ... and go from battery to
ground.

trace out the wires ... from the postive battery post, to the selenoid, to
the distributor to the ignition ... etc ... all suppose to be hot at all
times or just certain times depending on engine operation.

for example turn the key to start ... the start wire to the selenoid is
suppose to be hot, get a 12 volt reading on that wire. If the turn key
ignition switch is hot from the battery, and hot to the selenoid once turned
.... then that focus the question on why the distributor is not getting fire
from the selenoid only.

Follow the hot wires guy. Battery to ground.

Get a volt/amp meter ... the wires must have continunity and not be broken,
and they must be hot at the right times.

if your coil is hot wire going in ... and not hot going out ... then the
grounding has to be off somewhere with the coil, or the coil is sick. Since
you have a new coil ... then making sure the metal back plate of the coil is
on fresh scratched metal of the fender wall where it is mounted.'

Just a little bit of rust can stop the flow of electrons.

Turbo Diesel Fords have a 115v DC kicking their glow plugs ... so switching
them on and laying bare hand to them is going to HURT a LOT if you ever have
to electrical fault one of them. Be very carefull with Ford Diesel Turbos.

sumbuddie wear blind sea

in article
d002a4b6-82e5-4a64-b390-6bda04aa2140...oglegroups.com,
SPMcClellan@gmail.com at SPMcClellan@gmail.com wrote on 7/4/08 11:49 AM:

> Ok, I got some contact cleaner and opened all the connections and
> cleaned them out. I also cleaned the battery posts and verified the
> cells all had water. I have a good solid cranking action, I have fuel,
> but I still have no spar


The cells have to each get a hydrometer test to make sure they are each
working and still alive ... the battery has to take a load test. With a
voltage meter ... it will show 12 volts from post to post. Follow that hot
12 volts from the postive post ... to the starter, ignition switch,
distributor, selenoid, and spark plugs.

On a Ford ... good solid cranking action is not enough. All Fords require a
fully functional battery with all cells going. This must be tested by a
battery person who has the proper battery testing tools ... or you get the
tools and test it your self. After that ... it is just battery to ground
with a voltage meter for continunity of the wires ... and follow the juice.

Easy as pee eye eee.

sumbuddie wear blind sea

in article ffos64hpdbibhsumkef3q3n07p010mt1pa@4ax.com, Tim J. at
tj66821@usa.not wrote on 7/4/08 10:46 AM:

>>
>> WHAT THE FUCK ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT?
>
> He started his holiday partying early.


People stuck in their toddler tantrum are always lost.

If you have the wit for it, you can spot them every time no matter how much
strategerie they have at hand to beguile you with their Grim Pills that
pretend to make you better ... but just make you ill ...

Here have a Pill Grim ... see what it does.