Not getting heat from the vehicle (used to work fine)
Have already flushed coolant system and replaced thermostat.

Anyone with experience or real knowledge of this problem please help.
Links to places with good info also appreciated.

TIA

Lou

Lou wrote:
> Not getting heat from the vehicle (used to work fine)
> Have already flushed coolant system and replaced thermostat.
>
> Anyone with experience or real knowledge of this problem please help.
> Links to places with good info also appreciated.
>
> TIA
>
> Lou

To add to the above when the defroster is used it also does not put out
any heat.

Lou

"Lou" <lounotreal@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:45817D4C.6090905@optonline.net...
> Lou wrote:
>> Not getting heat from the vehicle (used to work fine)
>> Have already flushed coolant system and replaced thermostat.
>>
>> Anyone with experience or real knowledge of this problem please help.
>> Links to places with good info also appreciated.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Lou
>
> To add to the above when the defroster is used it also does not put out
> any heat.

Does the water temperature on your temperature gauge rise?

It may be that the heater core or hoses going to the heater core are
blocked.

Jeff

> Lou

Lou wrote:

> Not getting heat from the vehicle (used to work fine)
> Have already flushed coolant system and replaced thermostat.
>
> Anyone with experience or real knowledge of this problem please help.
> Links to places with good info also appreciated.
>
> TIA
>
> Lou

If the engine warms up OK, it's probably the blend door actuator that
has gone bad. but if you have climate control, it could be the ATC
control unit. The owner's manual usually has the self test for the ATC
in it, and it's also available many places online.

Lou wrote:
> Not getting heat from the vehicle (used to work fine)
> Have already flushed coolant system and replaced thermostat.
>
> Anyone with experience or real knowledge of this problem please help.
> Links to places with good info also appreciated.
>
> TIA
>
> Lou

It's possible your water pump looks like this:

http://home.sc.rr.com/estaab/image002.jpg

when it should look like this:

http://home.sc.rr.com/estaab/image001.jpg

I thought they had this problem licked by 2000, but your car may have
had another issue resulting in the water pump failure.

Rob

In article <l7idnfqlbsB3chzYnZ2dnUVZ_u7inZ2d@usadatanet.net >,
lmsearing@usdatanet.net says...
> It's possible your water pump looks like this:
>
> http://home.sc.rr.com/estaab/image002.jpg
>
> when it should look like this:
>
> http://home.sc.rr.com/estaab/image001.jpg
>
> I thought they had this problem licked by 2000, but your car may have
> had another issue resulting in the water pump failure.

I thought the water pump issues were mainly with the 2.5L version in the
Contour/Mystique (the plastic impeller would crack and not spin with the
shaft, or come lose and shatter.)

--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
law!!
http://home.att.net/~andyross

Andrew Rossmann wrote:
> In article <l7idnfqlbsB3chzYnZ2dnUVZ_u7inZ2d@usadatanet.net >,
> lmsearing@usdatanet.net says...
>
>>It's possible your water pump looks like this:
>>
>>http://home.sc.rr.com/estaab/image002.jpg
>>
>>when it should look like this:
>>
>>http://home.sc.rr.com/estaab/image001.jpg
>>
>>I thought they had this problem licked by 2000, but your car may have
>>had another issue resulting in the water pump failure.
>
>
> I thought the water pump issues were mainly with the 2.5L version in the
> Contour/Mystique (the plastic impeller would crack and not spin with the
> shaft, or come lose and shatter.)
>

Those pics are NOT of a plastic rotor! It is METAL eroded by
cavitation. This is a Vulcan issue, the 2.5 is a Duratech.

Rob

trainfan1 wrote:
>> It's possible your water pump looks like this:
>
> http://home.sc.rr.com/estaab/image002.jpg
> when it should look like this:
> http://home.sc.rr.com/estaab/image001.jpg
> I thought they had this problem licked by 2000, but your car may have
> had another issue resulting in the water pump failure.
> Rob

A friend who worked at the local Ford dealer, said it was delt with,
but not enough.. there was supposed to be some kind of sealer, which
would prevent the erosion from happening..

Contrary to someone else's remark, of it being cavitation, hardly..
Cavitation is caused by a
lack of water, and a vaccume is caused, by the water beginning to
actually boil, til it
suddenly gets a brief amount to lower the vaccume, where it litterally
hammers the entire
system. (firefighter, same thing happens if running a pump too hard,
without enough water
through the hoses to supply.. Blown quite a few steamer caps (main
inlet caps) off trucks,
and masacured too many impellers that way.)

the true cause, is the dissimilar metals, and electrolytic action. add
the cast iron block & heads, add a aluminum pump chamber, and a mild
steel impeller just sitting in the middle. the result, the slight
acidity to the antifreeze etches the mild steel.

I ran into the exact same problem, with a 1999 vulcan (3.0 V6 OHV) and
it cost me dearly, to get it back roadworthy again. (2 sets of head
gaskets, new pump, new radiator, machining to the read head to
eliminate warpage, serpintine belt) Mine didn't look as bad as the 1st
photo (image002.jpg), it still had the points left, but resembled a
martial arts throwing star.

the friend said they were coming in, in waves once the problem
appeared.. All they could do, was replace the pump, and whatever
damage, and send them on, till the sealant was used.. but even that
wouldn't stay. (rust on the block internals, it couldn't adhear.)

Stephen (gelfling6)

gelfling6@hotmail.com wrote:

> A friend who worked at the local Ford dealer, said it was delt with,
> but not enough.. there was supposed to be some kind of sealer, which
> would prevent the erosion from happening..
>
> Contrary to someone else's remark, of it being cavitation, hardly..
> Cavitation is caused by a
> lack of water, and a vaccume is caused, by the water beginning to
> actually boil, til it
> suddenly gets a brief amount to lower the vaccume, where it litterally
> hammers the entire
> system. (firefighter, same thing happens if running a pump too hard,
> without enough water
> through the hoses to supply.. Blown quite a few steamer caps (main
> inlet caps) off trucks,
> and masacured too many impellers that way.)
>
> the true cause, is the dissimilar metals, and electrolytic action. add
> the cast iron block & heads, add a aluminum pump chamber, and a mild
> steel impeller just sitting in the middle. the result, the slight
> acidity to the antifreeze etches the mild steel.
>
> the friend said they were coming in, in waves once the problem
> appeared.. All they could do, was replace the pump, and whatever
> damage, and send them on, till the sealant was used.. but even that
> wouldn't stay. (rust on the block internals, it couldn't adhear.)
>
> Stephen (gelfling6)
>
Yes, the problem was partially electrolysis and corrosion but cavitation as well.
Cavitation in the cooling system is well known to folks who deal with diesel engines.
The theory is exactly as you describe but on a much smaller (molecular) scale. The
combustion pulses cause micropulses in the cooling system along with harmonics of
those micropulses. This causes the coolant molecules to separate into gas that tends
to coat the hot internal surfaces of the engine. Vibrations shake the bubbles loose
allowing contact with liquid which causes rapid cooling of that tiny area. These areas
eventually erode. Impurities then leach out of the eroded metal and cause corrosion in
the cooling system. They also cause the PH in the coolant to become acidic, leading to
severe electrolysis and erosion of the water pump impeller.

If your "friend" is a Ford tech and has been properly briefed on this "concern", he
SHOULD know this. (BTW, In Ford speak, a problem is only a "problem" if they have a
fix. Until then, it's a "concern")They "came in waves" in about 1999-2003. There was
NO SEALER EVER INVOLVED in the Brown Coolant recall or recommended afterward. The
pumps weren't replaced, as a rule, either.
I did MANY "Brown Coolant" recalls on Tauri at the dealer during this period. The
systems were flushed with a highly alkalne solution, flushed, and the proper mix of
ethylene glycol added. There were also bypass hoses added to the cooling system to
alleviate the cavitation. I always thought that the water pump and core plugs should
have been replaced on all of those vehicles. They have been an area of concern since
then on used Tauri.