I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
nut, (but not real tight).

I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
???

This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
this, but not this one because of the shape).

Thanks for all help

Mark

maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
> nut, (but not real tight).
>
> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
> ???
>
> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
> this, but not this one because of the shape).
>
> Thanks for all help
>
> Mark

JB ain't going to handle it my friend. They make an aftermarket clamp
that can be used instead of a bolt. You could rethread the hole to a
larger size. If you can get a bolt there, you can get a tap there too.
As a last ditch effort you can use two of the best quality screw clamps
in an X pattern between the pipe flange and manifold. This really works.

maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
> nut, (but not real tight).
>
> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
> ???
>
> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
> this, but not this one because of the shape).
>
> Thanks for all help
>
> Mark
>

nope. a helicoil is what you need. you still will need to drill the
hole oversize and then tap the hole with the special tap provided with
the helicoil kit.

good luck,

nate

PS- there *was* a Chevy 307 as well; I think it was a 327/350 bore with
a 283 stroke, IIRC. My dad had one in his '73 pickup.

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

"Nate Nagel" <njnagel@flycast.net> wrote in message
news:e9ug0l026rj@news2.newsguy.com...
> maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
>> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
>> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
>> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
>> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
>> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
>> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
>> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
>> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
>> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
>> nut, (but not real tight).
>>
>> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
>> ???
>>
>> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
>> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
>> this, but not this one because of the shape).
>>
>> Thanks for all help
>>
>> Mark
>>
>
> nope. a helicoil is what you need. you still will need to drill the hole
> oversize and then tap the hole with the special tap provided with the
> helicoil kit.
>
> good luck,
>
> nate
>
> PS- there *was* a Chevy 307 as well; I think it was a 327/350 bore with a
> 283 stroke, IIRC. My dad had one in his '73 pickup.
>
> --

The Olds 307 was originally a Chevy engine, which GM later used in most of
its car lines. After a class action lawsuit, GM took a lot of heat for
installing their "GM product" engines in Oldsmobiles, Pontiacs and Buicks .
Seems some people wanted an Olds 307, not a Chevy 307. At one time, each
division had unique engines, but that made little sense from an economic
view when the industry was getting creamed in the mid 70's. Anyway, it had
the 283's bore of 3.875" and the 327's stroke of 3.25". This is not to be
confused with the legendary 302 ci motor, which had a 327's 4.00" bore and a
283's 3.00" stroke. Sweet.

On 22 Jul 2006 05:54:29 -0700, "Al Bundy" <MSfortune@mcpmail.com>
wrote:

>
>maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
>> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
>> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
>> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
>> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
>> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
>> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
>> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
>> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
>> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
>> nut, (but not real tight).
>>
>> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
>> ???
>>
>> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
>> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
>> this, but not this one because of the shape).
>>
>> Thanks for all help
>>
>> Mark
>
>JB ain't going to handle it my friend. They make an aftermarket clamp
>that can be used instead of a bolt. You could rethread the hole to a
>larger size. If you can get a bolt there, you can get a tap there too.
>As a last ditch effort you can use two of the best quality screw clamps
>in an X pattern between the pipe flange and manifold. This really works.

Of all the things suggested, and THANKS TO EVERYONE, that clamp sounds
like it would probably be the easiest thing to use. Do they sell them
at a place like NAPA / CARQUEST / AUTOZONE? Or can I order online
(website referals please), or do I need to go to a muffler shop?
I should note I live in a rural area and specialty parts are
impossible to find locally. We have a Napa and Carquest. If I drive
an hour, there's Autozone.

I have TWO of the THREE bolts securely tightened now, so I really just
need to pull that 3rd one tight. I used a custom made (at muffler
shop), split flange, and it's like 1/4 inch thick. So, drilling
oversive would require removal of the whole exxhaust system again, and
that does not sound like what I want to do. In reality, it's a 17
year old high milage car, and while a complete new exhaust system
including manifold would be the ideal, I just want to get the exhaust
quiet again, before the cops pull me over. Actually, Its very quiet
now. One pipe, one muffler one donut and the split flange did the
trick. But I already know that donut will burn out quickly if I dont
get that 3rd bolt tightened.

Mark

<maradcliff@UNLISTED.com> wrote in message
news:ei26c2lvnnejns26ggad68l1ugbqj9ravp@4ax.com...
> On 22 Jul 2006 05:54:29 -0700, "Al Bundy" <MSfortune@mcpmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
>>> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
>>> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
>>> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
>>> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
>>> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
>>> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
>>> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
>>> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
>>> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
>>> nut, (but not real tight).
>>>
>>> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
>>> ???
>>>
>>> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
>>> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
>>> this, but not this one because of the shape).
>>>
>>> Thanks for all help
>>>
>>> Mark
>>
>>JB ain't going to handle it my friend. They make an aftermarket clamp
>>that can be used instead of a bolt. You could rethread the hole to a
>>larger size. If you can get a bolt there, you can get a tap there too.
>>As a last ditch effort you can use two of the best quality screw clamps
>>in an X pattern between the pipe flange and manifold. This really works.
>
> Of all the things suggested, and THANKS TO EVERYONE, that clamp sounds
> like it would probably be the easiest thing to use. Do they sell them
> at a place like NAPA / CARQUEST / AUTOZONE? Or can I order online
> (website referals please), or do I need to go to a muffler shop?
> I should note I live in a rural area and specialty parts are
> impossible to find locally. We have a Napa and Carquest. If I drive
> an hour, there's Autozone.
>
> I have TWO of the THREE bolts securely tightened now, so I really just
> need to pull that 3rd one tight. I used a custom made (at muffler
> shop), split flange, and it's like 1/4 inch thick. So, drilling
> oversive would require removal of the whole exxhaust system again, and
> that does not sound like what I want to do. In reality, it's a 17
> year old high milage car, and while a complete new exhaust system
> including manifold would be the ideal, I just want to get the exhaust
> quiet again, before the cops pull me over. Actually, Its very quiet
> now. One pipe, one muffler one donut and the split flange did the
> trick. But I already know that donut will burn out quickly if I dont
> get that 3rd bolt tightened.

Try a "C" clamp if there is enough room. One of those wound up will hold it
and save the gasket.

Roy

"doug" <NOSPAM@SPAMFREE.com> wrote in message
news:UYidnSFh-ZYJfF_ZnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
> "Nate Nagel" <njnagel@flycast.net> wrote in message
> news:e9ug0l026rj@news2.newsguy.com...
>> maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
>>> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
>>> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
>>> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
>>> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
>>> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
>>> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
>>> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
>>> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
>>> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
>>> nut, (but not real tight).
>>>
>>> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
>>> ???
>>>
>>> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
>>> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
>>> this, but not this one because of the shape).
>>>
>>> Thanks for all help
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>
>> nope. a helicoil is what you need. you still will need to drill the
>> hole oversize and then tap the hole with the special tap provided with
>> the helicoil kit.
>>
>> good luck,
>>
>> nate
>>
>> PS- there *was* a Chevy 307 as well; I think it was a 327/350 bore with a
>> 283 stroke, IIRC. My dad had one in his '73 pickup.
>>
>> --
>
> The Olds 307 was originally a Chevy engine, which GM later used in most of
> its car lines.
Looking at the blocks closely, they were entirely different blocks,
altho' they may have shared the same bore & stroke. Completely
interchangeable, engine-mount & trans. pattern, with the Olds 350--but not
with the Chevy 350, as was the Chevy 307.
Where you mentioned 'sweet', you were dead on! That Chevy 302, which
was basically what we hot-rodders had done years earlier, was a 283 bored
out to 4 inches--or, as you said, a 327 bore & a 283 stroke. Man, was it a
screamer--& "sweet"!!!. s

maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold?

Not going to work.

Can you get a tap in there and tap the hole out to the next oversize,
then go with that larger size stud? I've dealt with many a stripped
internal thread in this way.

John

On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 18:36:42 GMT, John Horner <jthorner@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
>> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
>> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
>> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
>> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold?
>
>Not going to work.
>
>Can you get a tap in there and tap the hole out to the next oversize,
>then go with that larger size stud? I've dealt with many a stripped
>internal thread in this way.
>
>John

Thanks John

THere seems to be one problem though. This hole is not one that goes
all the way through. It goes into the casting and is "internal" in
the manifold itself. The hole is only maybe 5/8 inch deep. I know
taps are tapered, so I will never get it in far enough to make the
actual threads. What can I do to solve that?

Mark

Use a bottoming tap (flat bottom)....not a plug tap<tapered>
>
> THere seems to be one problem though. This hole is not one that goes
> all the way through. It goes into the casting and is "internal" in
> the manifold itself. The hole is only maybe 5/8 inch deep. I know
> taps are tapered, so I will never get it in far enough to make the
> actual threads. What can I do to solve that?
>
> Mark