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Discuss JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ????? in the alt.autos.gm forum at Car Dealer Forums; I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB Weld on ...
  1. #1
    maradcliff@UNLISTED.com
    Guest

    Default JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????

    I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
    studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
    new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
    whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
    the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
    might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
    nut, (but not real tight).

    I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
    ???

    This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
    way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
    this, but not this one because of the shape).

    Thanks for all help

    Mark


  2. #2
    Al Bundy
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????


    maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
    > I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    > Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    > engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    > OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
    > studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
    > new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
    > whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
    > the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
    > might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
    > nut, (but not real tight).
    >
    > I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
    > ???
    >
    > This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
    > way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
    > this, but not this one because of the shape).
    >
    > Thanks for all help
    >
    > Mark


    JB ain't going to handle it my friend. They make an aftermarket clamp
    that can be used instead of a bolt. You could rethread the hole to a
    larger size. If you can get a bolt there, you can get a tap there too.
    As a last ditch effort you can use two of the best quality screw clamps
    in an X pattern between the pipe flange and manifold. This really works.


  3. #3
    Nate Nagel
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????

    maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
    > I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    > Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    > engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    > OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
    > studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
    > new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
    > whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
    > the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
    > might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
    > nut, (but not real tight).
    >
    > I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
    > ???
    >
    > This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
    > way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
    > this, but not this one because of the shape).
    >
    > Thanks for all help
    >
    > Mark
    >


    nope. a helicoil is what you need. you still will need to drill the
    hole oversize and then tap the hole with the special tap provided with
    the helicoil kit.

    good luck,

    nate

    PS- there *was* a Chevy 307 as well; I think it was a 327/350 bore with
    a 283 stroke, IIRC. My dad had one in his '73 pickup.

    --
    replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

  4. #4
    doug
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????


    "Nate Nagel" <njnagel@flycast.net> wrote in message
    news:e9ug0l026rj@news2.newsguy.com...
    > maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
    >> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    >> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    >> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    >> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
    >> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
    >> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
    >> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
    >> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
    >> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
    >> nut, (but not real tight).
    >>
    >> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
    >> ???
    >>
    >> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
    >> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
    >> this, but not this one because of the shape).
    >>
    >> Thanks for all help
    >>
    >> Mark
    >>

    >
    > nope. a helicoil is what you need. you still will need to drill the hole
    > oversize and then tap the hole with the special tap provided with the
    > helicoil kit.
    >
    > good luck,
    >
    > nate
    >
    > PS- there *was* a Chevy 307 as well; I think it was a 327/350 bore with a
    > 283 stroke, IIRC. My dad had one in his '73 pickup.
    >
    > --


    The Olds 307 was originally a Chevy engine, which GM later used in most of
    its car lines. After a class action lawsuit, GM took a lot of heat for
    installing their "GM product" engines in Oldsmobiles, Pontiacs and Buicks .
    Seems some people wanted an Olds 307, not a Chevy 307. At one time, each
    division had unique engines, but that made little sense from an economic
    view when the industry was getting creamed in the mid 70's. Anyway, it had
    the 283's bore of 3.875" and the 327's stroke of 3.25". This is not to be
    confused with the legendary 302 ci motor, which had a 327's 4.00" bore and a
    283's 3.00" stroke. Sweet.



  5. #5
    maradcliff@UNLISTED.com
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????

    On 22 Jul 2006 05:54:29 -0700, "Al Bundy" <MSfortune@mcpmail.com>
    wrote:

    >
    >maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
    >> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    >> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    >> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    >> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
    >> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
    >> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
    >> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
    >> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
    >> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
    >> nut, (but not real tight).
    >>
    >> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
    >> ???
    >>
    >> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
    >> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
    >> this, but not this one because of the shape).
    >>
    >> Thanks for all help
    >>
    >> Mark

    >
    >JB ain't going to handle it my friend. They make an aftermarket clamp
    >that can be used instead of a bolt. You could rethread the hole to a
    >larger size. If you can get a bolt there, you can get a tap there too.
    >As a last ditch effort you can use two of the best quality screw clamps
    >in an X pattern between the pipe flange and manifold. This really works.


    Of all the things suggested, and THANKS TO EVERYONE, that clamp sounds
    like it would probably be the easiest thing to use. Do they sell them
    at a place like NAPA / CARQUEST / AUTOZONE? Or can I order online
    (website referals please), or do I need to go to a muffler shop?
    I should note I live in a rural area and specialty parts are
    impossible to find locally. We have a Napa and Carquest. If I drive
    an hour, there's Autozone.

    I have TWO of the THREE bolts securely tightened now, so I really just
    need to pull that 3rd one tight. I used a custom made (at muffler
    shop), split flange, and it's like 1/4 inch thick. So, drilling
    oversive would require removal of the whole exxhaust system again, and
    that does not sound like what I want to do. In reality, it's a 17
    year old high milage car, and while a complete new exhaust system
    including manifold would be the ideal, I just want to get the exhaust
    quiet again, before the cops pull me over. Actually, Its very quiet
    now. One pipe, one muffler one donut and the split flange did the
    trick. But I already know that donut will burn out quickly if I dont
    get that 3rd bolt tightened.

    Mark

  6. #6
    Roy
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????


    <maradcliff@UNLISTED.com> wrote in message
    news:ei26c2lvnnejns26ggad68l1ugbqj9ravp@4ax.com...
    > On 22 Jul 2006 05:54:29 -0700, "Al Bundy" <MSfortune@mcpmail.com>
    > wrote:
    >
    >>
    >>maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
    >>> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    >>> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    >>> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    >>> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
    >>> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
    >>> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
    >>> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
    >>> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
    >>> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
    >>> nut, (but not real tight).
    >>>
    >>> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
    >>> ???
    >>>
    >>> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
    >>> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
    >>> this, but not this one because of the shape).
    >>>
    >>> Thanks for all help
    >>>
    >>> Mark

    >>
    >>JB ain't going to handle it my friend. They make an aftermarket clamp
    >>that can be used instead of a bolt. You could rethread the hole to a
    >>larger size. If you can get a bolt there, you can get a tap there too.
    >>As a last ditch effort you can use two of the best quality screw clamps
    >>in an X pattern between the pipe flange and manifold. This really works.

    >
    > Of all the things suggested, and THANKS TO EVERYONE, that clamp sounds
    > like it would probably be the easiest thing to use. Do they sell them
    > at a place like NAPA / CARQUEST / AUTOZONE? Or can I order online
    > (website referals please), or do I need to go to a muffler shop?
    > I should note I live in a rural area and specialty parts are
    > impossible to find locally. We have a Napa and Carquest. If I drive
    > an hour, there's Autozone.
    >
    > I have TWO of the THREE bolts securely tightened now, so I really just
    > need to pull that 3rd one tight. I used a custom made (at muffler
    > shop), split flange, and it's like 1/4 inch thick. So, drilling
    > oversive would require removal of the whole exxhaust system again, and
    > that does not sound like what I want to do. In reality, it's a 17
    > year old high milage car, and while a complete new exhaust system
    > including manifold would be the ideal, I just want to get the exhaust
    > quiet again, before the cops pull me over. Actually, Its very quiet
    > now. One pipe, one muffler one donut and the split flange did the
    > trick. But I already know that donut will burn out quickly if I dont
    > get that 3rd bolt tightened.


    Try a "C" clamp if there is enough room. One of those wound up will hold it
    and save the gasket.

    Roy



  7. #7
    sdlomi2
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????


    "doug" <NOSPAM@SPAMFREE.com> wrote in message
    news:UYidnSFh-ZYJfF_ZnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@comcast.com...
    >
    > "Nate Nagel" <njnagel@flycast.net> wrote in message
    > news:e9ug0l026rj@news2.newsguy.com...
    >> maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
    >>> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    >>> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    >>> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    >>> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold? I have one of the 3
    >>> studs that refuse to thread into the manifold anymore. The stud is
    >>> new, so the manifold threads are shot. I am not willing to change the
    >>> whole manifold since I probably wont keep the car too much longer, and
    >>> the new stud will probably outlast the car. I thought that JB Weld
    >>> might keep it in there, and after it dries well, I can tighten the
    >>> nut, (but not real tight).
    >>>
    >>> I have no clue how hot an exhaust manifold gets????? It it over 600F
    >>> ???
    >>>
    >>> This is a Chevy 307 engine (the olds engine they used). There is no
    >>> way to drill thru this manifold and use a nut and bolt (some can do
    >>> this, but not this one because of the shape).
    >>>
    >>> Thanks for all help
    >>>
    >>> Mark
    >>>

    >>
    >> nope. a helicoil is what you need. you still will need to drill the
    >> hole oversize and then tap the hole with the special tap provided with
    >> the helicoil kit.
    >>
    >> good luck,
    >>
    >> nate
    >>
    >> PS- there *was* a Chevy 307 as well; I think it was a 327/350 bore with a
    >> 283 stroke, IIRC. My dad had one in his '73 pickup.
    >>
    >> --

    >
    > The Olds 307 was originally a Chevy engine, which GM later used in most of
    > its car lines.

    Looking at the blocks closely, they were entirely different blocks,
    altho' they may have shared the same bore & stroke. Completely
    interchangeable, engine-mount & trans. pattern, with the Olds 350--but not
    with the Chevy 350, as was the Chevy 307.
    Where you mentioned 'sweet', you were dead on! That Chevy 302, which
    was basically what we hot-rodders had done years earlier, was a 283 bored
    out to 4 inches--or, as you said, a 327 bore & a 283 stroke. Man, was it a
    screamer--& "sweet"!!!. s



  8. #8
    John Horner
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????

    maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
    > I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    > Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    > engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    > OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold?


    Not going to work.

    Can you get a tap in there and tap the hole out to the next oversize,
    then go with that larger size stud? I've dealt with many a stripped
    internal thread in this way.

    John

  9. #9
    maradcliff@UNLISTED.com
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????

    On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 18:36:42 GMT, John Horner <jthorner@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    >maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
    >> I was reading another older thread on her about someone that used JB
    >> Weld on a cracked engine block. They said it worked well on a HOT
    >> engine. Someone else said that JB Weld is rated to 600 degrees F.
    >> OK, but will it work on an exhaust manifold?

    >
    >Not going to work.
    >
    >Can you get a tap in there and tap the hole out to the next oversize,
    >then go with that larger size stud? I've dealt with many a stripped
    >internal thread in this way.
    >
    >John


    Thanks John

    THere seems to be one problem though. This hole is not one that goes
    all the way through. It goes into the casting and is "internal" in
    the manifold itself. The hole is only maybe 5/8 inch deep. I know
    taps are tapered, so I will never get it in far enough to make the
    actual threads. What can I do to solve that?

    Mark

  10. #10
    BAD 4 GOOD
    Guest

    Default Re: JB Weld on Exhaust Manifold ?????

    Use a bottoming tap (flat bottom)....not a plug tap<tapered>
    >
    > THere seems to be one problem though. This hole is not one that goes
    > all the way through. It goes into the casting and is "internal" in
    > the manifold itself. The hole is only maybe 5/8 inch deep. I know
    > taps are tapered, so I will never get it in far enough to make the
    > actual threads. What can I do to solve that?
    >
    > Mark




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