Sorry if you're the most popular guy on this site, but you are
knowledgeable, and your answers show both experience and wisdom. I
appreciate that.

I am about to buy (yet) another car, this time for my daughter. I can see
that I immediately need to get busy with a cooling system flush and a
transmission flush. It is a '98 with 136,000 miles on it. While it is not
a Hyundai, my questions involve generic maintenance.

A few questions:

*The car has anti-lock brakes. I would never bother with a brake fluid
change on a car that doesn't have them, but might it be worth it if it does?

*Can a "home flush" with the Prestone flushing tee and more even begin to
accomplish what I need for a cooling system flush or should it be done
professionally (the coolant looks very old)?

*Elsewhere (can't find the posts) you talked about how your worst issues
with oil have to do with oil not being able to get where it needs to go
because of clogged passages. How do I find out how this is working, and is
there anything I can do that might help, per the chance that the oil was not
changed properly?

By and large, the car runs very well and smoothly, which is why I am
considering it.

Any thoughts?

Tom Wenndt

As far as changing the brake fluid, I'm not a big believer in that, but
it's possible it'll do some good, and as long as you don't get air in the
system, can't do any harm. I usually find the simplest way to do this is
to open the bleeders and flip a brake fluid container upside down on the
master cylinder.

A home flush with a tee will likely be quite effective. There's not much
that's special about a "professional" flush.

I usually check for sludge by removing the oil cap and looking into the
engine as well as looking for a dark brown or black solid or semisolid
coating on the dipstick. Any of these are signs that you may have sludge
accumulation in the engine. If you can see inside and everything looks
clean, expect no oiling issues.

So I'm curious, what kind of car is it? 136k is scarier on some cars than
others.

hyundaitech wrote:

> As far as changing the brake fluid, I'm not a big believer in that, but
> it's possible it'll do some good, and as long as you don't get air in the
> system, can't do any harm. I usually find the simplest way to do this is
> to open the bleeders and flip a brake fluid container upside down on the
> master cylinder.

What kind of brake fluid does Hyundai use? DOT 3, 4, 5? If they don't
use silicone based fluid, then periodic changes are well advised as the
alcohol based fluids are hygroscopic.

Matt

how does moisture enter closed system?

"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
news:SsqEg.533$Db4.50461@news1.epix.net...
> hyundaitech wrote:
>
>> As far as changing the brake fluid, I'm not a big believer in that, but
>> it's possible it'll do some good, and as long as you don't get air in the
>> system, can't do any harm. I usually find the simplest way to do this is
>> to open the bleeders and flip a brake fluid container upside down on the
>> master cylinder.
>
> What kind of brake fluid does Hyundai use? DOT 3, 4, 5? If they don't
> use silicone based fluid, then periodic changes are well advised as the
> alcohol based fluids are hygroscopic.
>
> Matt

Darby OGill wrote:

> how does moisture enter closed system?

I'm not sure, but it does. Brake fluid turns dark as it absorbs
moisture and it will turn dark over time.


Matt

Darby OGill wrote:

> how does moisture enter closed system?

http://www.bobbyarchermotorsports.com/pdf_2848_2.pdf

Unless they've changed, Hyundai uses DOT 3.

"Hyundaitech" said: "So I'm curious, what kind of car is it? 136k is
scarier on some cars than others."......

I guess I'm supposed to say "April Fools." I just couldn't make myself buy
a car that needed that kind of maintenance that soon.

I ended up buying a '95 Geo Prizm with 84000 miles on it. The 1.6L engine
does require a timing belt, and I have a hunch it has never been changed,
but the tires, fluids, seats and more look good (though not SO much so that
you would expect a massive reconditioning job).

I can tell I will have to change oil immediately, and check other things
soon (brakes, etc.), but is easily the best I've found, especially for the
[very little] money.

Thanks again!

Tom Wenndt

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Darby OGill wrote:
>
>> how does moisture enter closed system?
>
>
> http://www.bobbyarchermotorsports.com/pdf_2848_2.pdf

Interesting article.

On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:07:17 GMT, Matt Whiting <whiting@epix.net> wrote:

>Darby OGill wrote:
>
>> how does moisture enter closed system?
>
>I'm not sure, but it does. Brake fluid turns dark as it absorbs
>moisture and it will turn dark over time.

The biggest issue with old brake fluid is not only moisture, but the
aluminum master cylinders some makes are using. Micro-grit and aluminum dust
from normal wear can accelerate master cylinder wear. A fluid change at 5
years or 100K is prudent.
--
Bob