> GUEST wrote:
> As some might recall, I have a 2007 Sonata that started backfiring,
and
> flashing the check engine light. The tow to the dealer resulted in
them
> replacing the engine. That actually didn't fix the problem. When I
picked
> the car up, the check engine light was still flashing, and the car
ran like
> crap. I drove it back to the dealer. The claim was that they had
washed the
> engine, and that caused a problem. He hooked it up to the scantool,
and I
> was able to drive it away.
>
> Gas mileage has been horrible since. Fast forward to the end of
June.... NC
> state inspection due. I took the car to an inspection station, and
it failed
> the emissions test Code P0302. Back to the dealer. They said they
thought it
> had a bad fuel injector, and ordered one. They claimed they were
swamped the
> following week (July 4th week), and would call me to come in. No
phone calls
> the month of July. I call them July 17, and ask what's up? They
said bring
> it in July 19th, that the part was there since July 3. I get there,
they've
> got a waiting area full of people, and no loaners. I didn't want to
wait
> there all day, and after the wonderful job they did putting it back
together
> after replacing the engine (acorn nuts missing on the plastic cover
over the
> engine, and bolts that hold the wiring harness in place at the back
of the
> engine) I figured rushing them wasn't the way to go. They tell me
to come
> back July 27. I do. they give me a brand new Santa Fe to drive.
>
> I come back at 5:00 because all they were doing was changing a fuel

> injector, which they said doesn't take long. I get told that they
needed to
> order a sender, and that it would be in Saturday morning, and I
could pick
> the car up then. I get a call Saturday saying no part came in. End
of day
> Monday, the sender didn't fix it, so they ordered an oxygen sensor,
and it
> should be in Tuesday. End of day Tuesday, no part. Wednesday
afternoon, I
> stop by, and they say the car will be ready. I come back, and pick
the car
> up.
>
> Now I go back to the inspection station (you've got 30 days to get
it
> re-done). It fails again. They said it's missing readiness
indicators, and
> it has a code P0302 stored. The inspector said I should come back
again
> after driving it for a while. That might take care of the readiness

> indicators, but he said the code might still make it fail. I've not
yet gone
> back to the dealer.
>
> The best part is: even though I specifically asked about the
missing
> hardware (capnuts, wiring harness screws), and the service manager
said they
> were replaced, they are still missing.... My kid even heard him say
it.
>
> How many times does it take to fix a problem like this?
>
> In case someone's thinking troll, or that I'm trying to BS (yeah,
this
> sounds even to me to be that unbelievable), I'll be happy to
provide
> Hyundaitech my VIN so he can look at the history.

What was
wrong with your brakes? Was this with a Sonata or other model?

Matt

The car is an 02 Sonata LX with 72,000 miles on it. The problem has
been vibration when the brakes are applied that feels like warped
rotors. The original rotors were turned twice, only to solve the
problem for a few thousand miles. New rotors were installed by the
dealer and they seemed to be OK for around 10,000 miles before the
vibration returned. Then the dealer refused to repair the problem,
much to my disapointment.

I have just replaced the rotors and pads with high performance models
from EBC and there is still a very slight vibration. This leads me
to believe there is some other root cause for all the brake problems.
Using a rudimentry runout gauge, there appears to be no runout in the
rotors. I am in the process of acquiring a more accurate gauge for
further investigation.

Been driving since before disc brakes were used on cars and never had
this problem before. I think Hyundai should have solved this problem
since the car was under bumper-to-bumper warranty. Their decision
will cost them a few new car sales over the next few years but I do
not think they care.

southluke wrote:

> The car is an 02 Sonata LX with 72,000 miles on it. The problem has
> been vibration when the brakes are applied that feels like warped
> rotors. The original rotors were turned twice, only to solve the
> problem for a few thousand miles. New rotors were installed by the
> dealer and they seemed to be OK for around 10,000 miles before the
> vibration returned. Then the dealer refused to repair the problem,
> much to my disapointment.

Might want to peruse this:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Matt

"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
news:L24vi.11391$Oc.304892@news1.epix.net...
> southluke wrote:
>
>> The car is an 02 Sonata LX with 72,000 miles on it. The problem has
>> been vibration when the brakes are applied that feels like warped
>> rotors. The original rotors were turned twice, only to solve the
>> problem for a few thousand miles. New rotors were installed by the
>> dealer and they seemed to be OK for around 10,000 miles before the
>> vibration returned. Then the dealer refused to repair the problem,
>> much to my disapointment.
>
> Might want to peruse this:
> http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
>
> Matt

Very interesting, especially - - - - -
There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing - following proper break
in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving
style and conditions.

During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where
and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the
safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process
is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or
pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process
is trying to avoid. Game over.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
> news:L24vi.11391$Oc.304892@news1.epix.net...
>> southluke wrote:
>>
>>> The car is an 02 Sonata LX with 72,000 miles on it. The problem has
>>> been vibration when the brakes are applied that feels like warped
>>> rotors. The original rotors were turned twice, only to solve the
>>> problem for a few thousand miles. New rotors were installed by the
>>> dealer and they seemed to be OK for around 10,000 miles before the
>>> vibration returned. Then the dealer refused to repair the problem,
>>> much to my disapointment.
>> Might want to peruse this:
>> http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
>>
>> Matt
>
> Very interesting, especially - - - - -
> There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing - following proper break
> in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving
> style and conditions.
>
> During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where
> and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the
> safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process
> is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or
> pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process
> is trying to avoid. Game over.

Keep reading. There is more after "game over."

I had a minivan that was notorious for "warping" its rotors. It got so
bad once that I was ready replace the rotors and pads, so I decided just
for fun to try a few really hard sopts in sequence. I read, maybe in a
different article, that this could reverse some of the uneven transfer
of pad material.

So, I went out to a back country road with virtually no traffic and made
10 or so hard stops from 60 MPH to 5 or so with some cooling time in
between. Presto! The "warped" brakes were now virtually gone. There
was some very minor pulsation still present, but almost negligible. I
ran those brakes and rotors several thousand more miles without trouble.

Matt