Hi Dave!

On 22 Mar 2007 19:08:45 -0700, dave.mcc@telus.net wrote:


>First, I don't need the AC where we live so has anyone tried removing
>the drive belt to the compressor - I'm thinking it would give
>slightly better gas mileage - one less thing to turn... Any comments
>about this?

No worries, just pull the belt. Doubt you'll see any mileage change,
but one less thing to go wrong. AC does get involved with the
operation of the defroster, but I'm sure it'll work just fine w/o.

>Second, I've read several posts about the importance of keeping all
>tires at even wear, change all tires at the same time, etc, because of
>that viscous thing that adjusts power to the wheels. I've read the
>owners' manual carefully, I think, and I can't see any reference to
>this at all, in fact the car has one of those little spares and only
>recommends not driving faster than 80 km/hr. Does anyone know what
>you CAN get away with? Not that I want to push the envelope or
>anything, but I might want to just put new tires on the front rather
>than replace all four....

They need to be the same diameter (circumference, actually) all
around, as close as possible. If you must run a different diameter
tire, best to put it on the rear. (Unless your car has an LSD rear,
then you might prefer it on the front.) I don't know how much
difference is too much, but certainly these cars wear the fronts
faster than the rears, so the system has to be somewhat tolerant. New
tires on the front, and 1/2 worn ones on the back, as long as they're
the same tire (not simply the same numerical size), should be fine.

>Third, I've also heard that on this engine if the cam drive belt
>breaks, there is not likely to be any damage - the thing will just
>stop. True or not? I will probably take off the covers and have a
>look at the belt, but there are lots of things to take apart to see it
>and the engine does have 250,000 km on it. Sooo....

I've heard that the EJ22 is a non-interference engine. I've also seen
at least one instance of bent valves resulting from a timing belt
failure. Best bet is to simply replace the belt and idlers regularly.
Really a fairly simple job on the EJ22, but you will need to pull the
radiator and crank pulley. The crank pulley can be a bear if you don't
have the correct holder, and if you don't get it tight enough (how
tight? very tight.) when you reassemble, you risk damage to the crank
end. I have heard it suggested that you can stall the crank by
stuffing a bit of nylon rope into the #1 sparkplug hole and bringing
the piston up towards TDC on the compression stroke. Never tried this,
but then I have a home-made holder . . .

Anyone on the group ever try this trick?

I will also add that _if_ you are willing to dispense with the AC, you
can then remove the AC condenser (after being ecologically proper and
_pumping_ the Freon out, naturally ;-), which should then allow you to
get an impact wrench on the crank pulley bolt.

>Finally, I'm looking for a shop manual. I'm sort of familiar with
>Chiltons's and Haynes and I guess they're "OK" if I can't find
>something better. Anyone have anything available or an opinion on
>what's best of those two choices? I'd like something with good and
>complete information, not a discussion of how to change sparkplugs!

Choices limited to either the Chaynes books, or a factory set. Haven't
seen the factory set on CD, but possible it exists. Otherwise shop
ebay; probably get a paper set for ~$100.

ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101