>I have a 1999 Legacy sedan 2.2 (auto trans). I have never done half
>shafts on any car (I always had rear wheel drive cars until 1999).

>Can someone tell me the steps to remove & replace the half shafts?
>I have the correct socket for the axle nut. After I remove the
>caliper, rotor & axle nut, does the splined shaft just slide out?
>Do I need any special tools, or do I need to separate the lower ball
>joint? Can I re-use the axle nut? Does anyone know the axle nut torque
>value?

>I have 30+ years of automotive skills & all the ordinary tools,
>pullers, acetylene etc, but I have never done half shafts before, so
>any pointers will be greatly appreciated.

Let's hope someone who has done a 99 Legacy pops in with more info,
but if not, here goes. I've done lots of half shafts on Subys, but not a 99.

No special tools needed. Top of my head I think axle nut is about 150 Ft Lbs.
Its easy. Undo axle nut, jack up remove wheel, all that normal stuff.

I always have to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
Off the top of my head I am thinking I had to undo ball joint on some models
but not all. If you do, no biggie. Very easy.

By the way, I think it is a waste to try to rebuild a half shaft yourself, just get a
rebuilt unit from NAPA or other name brand. If you need a new axle nut, it
should come with it. Otherwise, it probably has a cotterpin type.

Knock out the tension pin holding the axle to the transmission output shaft
near the transmission.
Save pin unless you are (recommended, $5) replacing it.

Pull the steering knuckle far enough out away from the engine to remove
the splined end of the axle. Turning wheels can help. Press center of axle
out if stuck (any big puller) or put axle nut back on axle and tap lightly with
a huge hammer (if stuck) untill it loosens up. Then slide out.

Good time to turn wheel bearings by hand after axle is out and check seals.
Some axles have an interferance nut which has to be punched with a hammer
instead of having a cotter pin.

Reverse to install.

The Ole Rep (not Subaru)

Very important to use only a pin punch to remove that inboard joint roll
pin. I think the punch size is 3/16. Things like drill bits have a
tendency to break and then there you are up the creek. Roll pin only
comes out and is reinstalled one way. Determine which side of the inboard
joint is beveled and work from that side. I've done this job twice on my
95 wagon, which still has the original axles. I just disconnect the strut
at the knuckle and remove the caliper. For some unknown reason and this
may only be true with my wagon, I sometimes have to remove the axle from
the differential shaft and rotate it 180 degrees to reinstall the roll
pin.

Hi Newbie, All!

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 01:43:02 -0500, <rep@factyory.invalid> wrote:

Ol' Rep has given you most of what you'll need, I'll add a couple
comments:


>No special tools needed. Top of my head I think axle nut is about 150 Ft Lbs.
>Its easy. Undo axle nut, jack up remove wheel, all that normal stuff.

Use a 1/2 inch impact to remove the axle nut (and the castle nut on
the tie-rod end, if you decide to disconnect it). No need to relieve
staking or the cotter pin, the inpact'll do it for you. If you are
working on the passenger side axle, it may help to drop the exhaust
"Y" pipe by removing the nuts on the flanges, and the bolt at the
hanger at the back of the tranny.

>I always have to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.

Generally separating the lower ball joint will give enough slop to get
the axle off the output stub of the tranny. If you decide to
disconnect the tie-rod, replace the castle nut, with the threads even
with the top of the nut. Give it a sharp wack with a heavy ball-pein
hammer, and it should separate easily, w/o damage to the tie-rod end.

>Off the top of my head I am thinking I had to undo ball joint on some models
>but not all. If you do, no biggie. Very easy.

Definitely do this. A 10mm (? 14mm head) bolt thru the bottom of the
hub clamps it to the lower ball joint. Remove this bolt, and use a
large pry-bar to separate ball joint from the hub.
This will allow the hub to move outboard far enuf to separate the axle
from the tranny as below.

>Knock out the tension pin holding the axle to the transmission output shaft
>near the transmission.
>Save pin unless you are (recommended, $5) replacing it.

Use the correct size pin punch to do this. If you use something else,
or too large of a punch, and it gets stuck in the hole you will be
sad. If you examine the axle, and the output stub, you will see that
one side of the pin hole is chamfered on both. Align the chamfered
sides during re-assembly, and re-insert the pin from that direction as
well.

>Pull the steering knuckle far enough out away from the engine to remove
>the splined end of the axle. Turning wheels can help. Press center of axle
>out if stuck (any big puller) or put axle nut back on axle and tap lightly with
>a huge hammer (if stuck) untill it loosens up. Then slide out.

Should just slide right out. If you have to resort to a hammer
(Anything more than a casual love-tap. Use a hardwood block between
the axle and your hammer.), consider also replacing the wheel bearings
(or the entire hub; visit your friendly neighborhood junkyard), as
blows to the axle end are absorbed by the wheel bearings, which
inevitably leads to bearing failure on down the road.

Slide the new axle into the hub, then onto the output shaft of the
tranny, noting alignment as above. Replace the pin. Use the impact to
replace the axle nut, and get it tight; at least 120-150ftlb. Redo the
staking. Use the prybar to reassemble the hub-ball joint and replace
the bolt. If necessary, put the tie-rod back together and replace the
"Y" pipe. Remount the wheel. TaDa!

Hope this helps.

ByeBye! S.


Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101