Heh. There's the model.

My lovely Subaru died Sunday, and I am at a loss. I'm kind of limited
on funds, and do what I can a s a novice mechanic (I can generally
pinpoint most things and fix them myself), but this one eludes me.

On my way home from work, the car died. Battery still works, as
everything is still on. Alternator was just replaced, and the car just
had her ragular tune-up. The cellinoid and starter are fine, no
clicking noises. I did some research, and the only thing that I can
come up with is that it is either something with the distributor or the
timing belt.

(Yeah, I even checked the stuff here, some very good things to read,
much appreciated!)

Based on what the problem may be, is there any way to eliminate what it
could be based on what I have said? I'm a poor college student, no
parents to help me out, so whatever you guys can tell me would be most
appreciated. I need to save all the funds that I can.

Thanks muchly, y'all.

Caz.

Oh, as an added note, the car will turn on, it just won't turn over.

What does that mean?

Hi Caz!

On 16 Aug 2006 06:57:42 -0700, "cazualty"
<social_dysfunction@hotmail.com> wrote:


>Based on what the problem may be, is there any way to eliminate what it
>could be based on what I have said? I'm a poor college student, no
>parents to help me out, so whatever you guys can tell me would be most
>appreciated. I need to save all the funds that I can.

Pull a plug wire and check for spark. Easiest way is to plug in a
spark plug and lay it on the top of the engine while someone cranks
it. Easier to see in low light, but you can also hear it . . . If no
spark, check the ignition switch and/or replace the distributor.
If the spark's OK, check for proper function of the fuel pump, ie be
sure gas is getting to the carb/EFI rails. If not, try applying 12 V
direct to the pump, located beneath the chassis, more or less under
the r. rear seat. If _that_ gets gas, check the fuel pump control
module located behind (or above?) the drivers side kick panel.
If spark and fuel are good, pull whichever timing belt cover looks
easier to access, and check that the timing belt hasn't broken.
Lotsa other things it _could_ be, but the above are the common failure
modes. Remember: An internal combustion engine needs three things to
run. Air/fuel in approximately the correct ratio, at least some sort
of compression, and an ignition source (spark) at more or less the
correct time . . .

>Thanks muchly, y'all.

Yer most welcome. Good luck.

ByeBye! S.


Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

My advice:

I own an 88 sub, it's my 2nd so far and I love them. Here's what i can
suggest, as an enthusiastic novice myself:

Follow the Line. You say it turns over but will not start - therefore,
your starter and all power up to the blast off is fine. What's next
then? I would check the plugs, probably won't hurt mechanically or
financially to replace them. You can simply take them out, look them
over, see if there's any build up and make sure they are locked in
tightly. I would definately look into the distributer; could very
well be the points there, so I would replace all that simple stuff. If
there's still no go, yeah you likely need to look into the timing belt.
I believe they recommend 50k miles on that, but if it's that which
went then yeah, no go, but you should be able to get that done yourself
easily enough.

That's about the extent of my troubleshooting knowledge, but like I
say, follow the line on down, check the next stage in the start-up and
the next until you find it. You should be ont he road soon enough.

Good Luck,
othello
S wrote:
> Hi Caz!
>
> On 16 Aug 2006 06:57:42 -0700, "cazualty"
> <social_dysfunction@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> >Based on what the problem may be, is there any way to eliminate what it
> >could be based on what I have said? I'm a poor college student, no
> >parents to help me out, so whatever you guys can tell me would be most
> >appreciated. I need to save all the funds that I can.
>
> Pull a plug wire and check for spark. Easiest way is to plug in a
> spark plug and lay it on the top of the engine while someone cranks
> it. Easier to see in low light, but you can also hear it . . . If no
> spark, check the ignition switch and/or replace the distributor.
> If the spark's OK, check for proper function of the fuel pump, ie be
> sure gas is getting to the carb/EFI rails. If not, try applying 12 V
> direct to the pump, located beneath the chassis, more or less under
> the r. rear seat. If _that_ gets gas, check the fuel pump control
> module located behind (or above?) the drivers side kick panel.
> If spark and fuel are good, pull whichever timing belt cover looks
> easier to access, and check that the timing belt hasn't broken.
> Lotsa other things it _could_ be, but the above are the common failure
> modes. Remember: An internal combustion engine needs three things to
> run. Air/fuel in approximately the correct ratio, at least some sort
> of compression, and an ignition source (spark) at more or less the
> correct time . . .
>
> >Thanks muchly, y'all.
>
> Yer most welcome. Good luck.
>
> ByeBye! S.
>
>
> Steve Jernigan KG0MB
> Laboratory Manager
> Microelectronics Research
> University of Colorado
> (719) 262-3101

cazualty wrote:
> Oh, as an added note, the car will turn on, it just won't turn over.
>
> What does that mean?

that means you need to clean your battery connectors,
ground connection to the frame, +v connection to the
starter..

use electrical contact cleaner and a wire brush. remove
bolts, clean, then replace bolts.

do lights on dash dim when you try to start it?

verify that the engine will turn, by putting a wrench
on the crank pulley, and turn.. if it wont turn, your
engine is seized.

Rich

You broke the timing belt that drives the distributor. Crank engine with
distributor cap removed to verify. No rotor rotation means it is the
belt. After installing the first belt, don't forget to rotate the engine
one full revolution before installing the second belt.