worzacct@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Thanks in advance for anyone who might have information on this issue.
We have a similar car of a slightly earlier vintage, which went 80,000mi before the
gasket blew. I did a lot of research on it at the time, and the consensus seemed to be:
* The genuine replacement gasket is much better
* The problem is really with the open head design
* It's quite difficult to bleed all the air out of the engine
* The gaskets fail due to local overheating where the air bubble sits
* You'll hear it gurgling on switch-off if it isn't bled right.
The upshot is:
* if you have the original gasket, and your engine is *always* bled correctly,
the gasket won't fail prematurely,
* if you have a replacement gasket, you have better chances of surviving poor bleeding,
* you should ensure that your mechanic knows the correct procedure, knows that you know
it too, and will blame them *and make them fix it* if the gasket blows after they've
serviced it.
* There's some reason to consider tapping a small tube into the cross-over pipe that
carries coolant from one side of the engine to the other, and running that tube to
the top of the radiator, to make the engine self-bleeding from the highest point.
We haven't added this bleed tube, but the car has survived a further 25,000mi so far.
Clifford Heath.