Hello,

05 4 runner 4WD and I need to change front brakes. I'm going to
follow the collective wisdom of this group and get Toyota brand pads.
I looked for a Haynes or Chilton manual at parts store, but neither
company seems to make them yet for my year. I've done many brakes on
a 1995 4 disc Explorer before, so I'm familiar with the process. Just
wondering if there are any things to keep an eye on? They make a
Haynes manual for a 2002 but didn't know if they're similar enough?

Thanks,
Ted

Ted wrote:
> Hello,
>
> 05 4 runner 4WD and I need to change front brakes. I'm going to
> follow the collective wisdom of this group and get Toyota brand pads.
> I looked for a Haynes or Chilton manual at parts store, but neither
> company seems to make them yet for my year. I've done many brakes on
> a 1995 4 disc Explorer before, so I'm familiar with the process. Just
> wondering if there are any things to keep an eye on? They make a
> Haynes manual for a 2002 but didn't know if they're similar enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Ted



Chances are, you'll be fine. If you get stuck, techinfo.toyota.com is
$10 for all you can eat in 24 hours.

The 4Runner was a full redesign in '04 (the Tacoma in '05), so there
could be some differences from the '02.

"B A R R Y" <beech23pilot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:KGx8j.53514$eY.50718@newssvr13.news.prodigy.n et...
> Ted wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> 05 4 runner 4WD and I need to change front brakes. I'm going to
>> follow the collective wisdom of this group and get Toyota brand pads.
>> I looked for a Haynes or Chilton manual at parts store, but neither
>> company seems to make them yet for my year. I've done many brakes on
>> a 1995 4 disc Explorer before, so I'm familiar with the process. Just
>> wondering if there are any things to keep an eye on? They make a
>> Haynes manual for a 2002 but didn't know if they're similar enough?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ted
>
>
>
> Chances are, you'll be fine. If you get stuck, techinfo.toyota.com is $10
> for all you can eat in 24 hours.
>
> The 4Runner was a full redesign in '04 (the Tacoma in '05), so there could
> be some differences from the '02.
>

I agree with Barry, if you know how to work on disc brakes, you will have no
trouble with the Toyota design. The standard precautions about brakes apply
(clean caliper slides, true rotors, etc.) ...

I heard Toy trucks get the better Akebono brake pads, with the
markings AK xxx-xxx FF. Do let us know which batch you get. I of
course just get the aftermarket ceramics so I know it's Akebono each
time.



On Dec 14, 6:33 am, Ted <waterskier_e...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> 05 4 runner 4WD and I need to change front brakes. I'm going to
> follow the collective wisdom of this group and get Toyota brand pads.
> I looked for a Haynes or Chilton manual at parts store, but neither
> company seems to make them yet for my year. I've done many brakes on
> a 1995 4 disc Explorer before, so I'm familiar with the process. Just
> wondering if there are any things to keep an eye on? They make a
> Haynes manual for a 2002 but didn't know if they're similar enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Ted

"Ted" <waterskier_erie@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b2784d18-e075-45bc-9a12-392fc60ad7f0@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
> Hello,
>
> 05 4 runner 4WD and I need to change front brakes. I'm going to
> follow the collective wisdom of this group and get Toyota brand pads.
> I looked for a Haynes or Chilton manual at parts store, but neither
> company seems to make them yet for my year. I've done many brakes on
> a 1995 4 disc Explorer before, so I'm familiar with the process. Just
> wondering if there are any things to keep an eye on? They make a
> Haynes manual for a 2002 but didn't know if they're similar enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Ted

Toyota uses two types of calipers, I'm not sure which one your 4Runner has.
The more common type uses 2 bolts on the inboard side of the caliper that
you remove and lift the caliper off of the torque plate. The other type has
2 pins held in place with cotter pins. Remove the cotter pins, pull the
other 2 pins out (they pass through the pads), slide out the old pads,
compress the pistons, slide in the new pads, replace the 2 pins with new
cotter pins, and you're done. The second type is easy in theory but the
pins can become difficult to remove due to corrosion. I would give the pins
a very thin coating of anti-seize so they are easier to remove the next
time.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

On Dec 15 2007, 11:10*am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>
wrote:
> "Ted" <waterskier_e...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:b2784d18-e075-45bc-9a12-392fc60ad7f0@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Hello,
>
> >054 runner 4WD and I need to change front brakes. *I'm going to
> > follow the collective wisdom of this group and get Toyota brand pads.
> > I looked for a Haynes or Chilton manual at parts store, but neither
> > company seems to make them yet for my year. *I've done many brakes on
> > a 1995 4 disc Explorer before, so I'm familiar with the process. *Just
> > wondering if there are any things to keep an eye on? *They make a
> > Haynes manual for a 2002 but didn't know if they're similar enough?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Ted
>
> Toyota uses two types of calipers, I'm not sure which one your4Runnerhas.
> The more common type uses 2 bolts on the inboard side of the caliper that
> you remove and lift the caliper off of the torque plate. *The other typehas
> 2 pins held in place with cotter pins. *Remove the cotter pins, pull the
> other 2 pins out (they pass through the pads), slide out the old pads,
> compress the pistons, slide in the new pads, replace the 2 pins with new
> cotter pins, and you're done. *The second type is easy in theory but the
> pins can become difficult to remove due to corrosion. *I would give the pins
> a very thin coating of anti-seize so they are easier to remove the next
> time.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)


Mine was was what you describe as the 2 bolts on the inside torque
plate type setup. It also has 2 pins with cotter type pins on the
ends that pass through each pad to hold them in place. I pasted this
from my reply to someone at
www.toyotanation.com. It's a great discussion group and I have gotten
alot of help from the guys there. Also 4x4wire. com is another great
source of info:

"I agree with McNar's response. As a matter of fact, I used his info
to do mine and he was pretty much right on the money. My 05 had 51k
and my mechanic told me I needed new front pads. Rotors were fine.
Remove the lug nuts with a (22 mm?) 6 point socket. I've found that
using a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive socket works well and keeps the
torque nice and direct, for easy removal.
I've done brakes on other vehicles and this one was quite easy. I
removed the cap from master cyl to allow expansion. To detach the
caliper from the wheel hub, you will need a good 6 point (17mm?)
socket on a breaker bar. Getting these loose was the most challenging
part, as this was the first time for breaks. I think the manual
recommends 90 foot pounds torque! On my other vehicle (95 explorer)
the brake line is ridgid except for the last 6 inches flexible. This
makes it a bit easier to brakes, as I just hang the caliper up out of
the way with a coat hanger, when removing the pads from it. On the
4runner the brake lines are ridgid, then flexible, then a small ridgid
piece attachs to the caliper. This makes it necessary to remove the
line from the caliper to replace the pads, otherwise it would kink.
Line came off easily (10 mm I think) and I pushed a small rubber plug
into it to stop it from dripping while I removed the pads from the
caliper.

There are 2 slide pins that pass through shoes and they have small
wire clip thing that goes thru a small hole in the end of the pins.
This prevents the pin from sliding out. The clip looks like a twisted
paperclip. Also note the anti-squeel clip (flat butterfly shaped piece
of flat steel) that goes between the two shoes. It "wraps" around the
lower slide pin and will be released when slide pin is removed. Slide
pins were a little bit dirty, so I was nice to have a 3/8" drift to
drive them out. I used some light emmory cloth to clean them up.
Remove the 2 anti squeel shims per each pad as they can be reused on
the new pads. Be sure to use break quiet "greese" goop. I got a bottle
at Advance Auto with enough to do many jobs. It's a light red color
and squeezes out like wood glue from the bottle. It will set up in 10
min enough to reassemble. I think it firms up even more with time/heat
from the shoes. The rotors came off without effort, to I chipped off
any loose rust/scale and put antiseeze around the mating surface
before replacing it. Explorer discs always rust froze to the hub, so I
tend to be paranoid about this. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner.

Be sure the break line hole is pointed away from any painted surfaces
or other areas you don't want coated with break fluid, before you
compress the pads/pistons. Just taping the pins free with the drift
caused it to squirt out fluid. My old pads had about 3/8" material
left and the new ones have about 1/2" material. I checked it with the
caliper, but can't remember exact measurements. Reassembly is the
reverse of removal. Be sure to use slide greese on the slide bolts.
It's of course easier to rebolt the caliper to the axle hub before
reattaching the breakline. Don't forget to remove any plug from the
line if you used one. After attaching it, open the bleeder screw and
have assistant pump pedal until you purge out all the air (same 10mm
wrench). Tighten it down and have them pump pedal to set the shoes.
Good Luck.....piece of cake!
Ted

"Ted" <waterskier_erie@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:7eb34ec9-abc9-4ee9-bd26-d7f1a709a606@v67g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 15 2007, 11:10 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>
wrote:
> "Ted" <waterskier_e...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:b2784d18-e075-45bc-9a12-392fc60ad7f0@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Hello,
>
> >054 runner 4WD and I need to change front brakes. I'm going to
> > follow the collective wisdom of this group and get Toyota brand pads.
> > I looked for a Haynes or Chilton manual at parts store, but neither
> > company seems to make them yet for my year. I've done many brakes on
> > a 1995 4 disc Explorer before, so I'm familiar with the process. Just
> > wondering if there are any things to keep an eye on? They make a
> > Haynes manual for a 2002 but didn't know if they're similar enough?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Ted
>
> Toyota uses two types of calipers, I'm not sure which one your4Runnerhas.
> The more common type uses 2 bolts on the inboard side of the caliper that
> you remove and lift the caliper off of the torque plate. The other type
> has
> 2 pins held in place with cotter pins. Remove the cotter pins, pull the
> other 2 pins out (they pass through the pads), slide out the old pads,
> compress the pistons, slide in the new pads, replace the 2 pins with new
> cotter pins, and you're done. The second type is easy in theory but the
> pins can become difficult to remove due to corrosion. I would give the
> pins
> a very thin coating of anti-seize so they are easier to remove the next
> time.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)


Mine was was what you describe as the 2 bolts on the inside torque
plate type setup. It also has 2 pins with cotter type pins on the
ends that pass through each pad to hold them in place. I pasted this
from my reply to someone at
www.toyotanation.com. It's a great discussion group and I have gotten
alot of help from the guys there. Also 4x4wire. com is another great
source of info:

"I agree with McNar's response. As a matter of fact, I used his info
to do mine and he was pretty much right on the money. My 05 had 51k
and my mechanic told me I needed new front pads. Rotors were fine.
Remove the lug nuts with a (22 mm?) 6 point socket. I've found that
using a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive socket works well and keeps the
torque nice and direct, for easy removal.
I've done brakes on other vehicles and this one was quite easy. I
removed the cap from master cyl to allow expansion. To detach the
caliper from the wheel hub, you will need a good 6 point (17mm?)
socket on a breaker bar. Getting these loose was the most challenging
part, as this was the first time for breaks. I think the manual
recommends 90 foot pounds torque! On my other vehicle (95 explorer)
the brake line is ridgid except for the last 6 inches flexible. This
makes it a bit easier to brakes, as I just hang the caliper up out of
the way with a coat hanger, when removing the pads from it. On the
4runner the brake lines are ridgid, then flexible, then a small ridgid
piece attachs to the caliper. This makes it necessary to remove the
line from the caliper to replace the pads, otherwise it would kink.
Line came off easily (10 mm I think) and I pushed a small rubber plug
into it to stop it from dripping while I removed the pads from the
caliper.

There are 2 slide pins that pass through shoes and they have small
wire clip thing that goes thru a small hole in the end of the pins.
This prevents the pin from sliding out. The clip looks like a twisted
paperclip. Also note the anti-squeel clip (flat butterfly shaped piece
of flat steel) that goes between the two shoes. It "wraps" around the
lower slide pin and will be released when slide pin is removed. Slide
pins were a little bit dirty, so I was nice to have a 3/8" drift to
drive them out. I used some light emmory cloth to clean them up.
Remove the 2 anti squeel shims per each pad as they can be reused on
the new pads. Be sure to use break quiet "greese" goop. I got a bottle
at Advance Auto with enough to do many jobs. It's a light red color
and squeezes out like wood glue from the bottle. It will set up in 10
min enough to reassemble. I think it firms up even more with time/heat
from the shoes. The rotors came off without effort, to I chipped off
any loose rust/scale and put antiseeze around the mating surface
before replacing it. Explorer discs always rust froze to the hub, so I
tend to be paranoid about this. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner.

Be sure the break line hole is pointed away from any painted surfaces
or other areas you don't want coated with break fluid, before you
compress the pads/pistons. Just taping the pins free with the drift
caused it to squirt out fluid. My old pads had about 3/8" material
left and the new ones have about 1/2" material. I checked it with the
caliper, but can't remember exact measurements. Reassembly is the
reverse of removal. Be sure to use slide greese on the slide bolts.
It's of course easier to rebolt the caliper to the axle hub before
reattaching the breakline. Don't forget to remove any plug from the
line if you used one. After attaching it, open the bleeder screw and
have assistant pump pedal until you purge out all the air (same 10mm
wrench). Tighten it down and have them pump pedal to set the shoes.
Good Luck.....piece of cake!
Ted
************
OK, it sounds like you have the second type of brake (not "break") setup I
described. Next time, if you do not need to replace the rotors, don't
bother removing the caliper from the torque plate. Just remove the 2 pins
that pass through the brake pads and slide the pads out. This way, you do
not have to bleed the brake lines.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)