<shettync@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1171675627.674026.220460@l53g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> My 96 corolla DX 1.8L 4cyl, flunked the emission test (state of ct)
> with the following
> reason code:
> P0141:O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2

Sensor 2 is the one located after the catalytic converter so it is unlikely
that anyone touched it when replacing the exhaust manifold.
>
> I recently spent $400+ and replaced the exhaust manifold &
> gaskets(dealer parts) at a local Meineke. They never mentioned about a
> broken o2 sensor. I called the dealer and found out that these o2
> sensors go for $160.
> The shady local emission place guy didnt mention about how much he
> would charge to get this fixed. Can I use a after mkt item? I have 30
> days to reappear for a retest.
> Is this something which I can fix or do I need to pay a visit to the
> shop?
> Any suggestions?
>
> ~~N
>

If would check the O2 sensor heater circuit with a volt meter to see if you
have an open circuit before replacing it.

O2 sensors are pretty easy to replace - unplug it, remove it, and reverse
the process.

You can use an aftermarket O2 sensor, although be aware that some do not
have a plug that matches the factory harness plug so you have to snip the
plug off of the old sensor, solder the new wires, and apply some heat shrink
tubing to use it. Look for an aftermarket sensor with a plug that matches
the factory harness or use OEM.

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

<shettync@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1171753966.651223.294110@p10g2000cwp.googlegr oups.com...
> Ray, Jeff -
>
> Thanks very much for your inputs.
> I am a zero when it comes to car internals ...so plz bear with my dumb
> questions
>
> Ray when you said "would check the O2 sensor heater circuit with a
> volt meter to see if you
> have an open circuit before replacing it". Is this more like an visual
> inspection?
>

I agree that one should check the sensor, but on the other hand I have
confidence that if the Heater is reported as open, then odds favor it being
open. If the error was that the data was out of range, then a test would be
required. But, the error is that the heater has failed -- this is like a
report that a light bulb has gone out, which explains the blackened room.

I think you are safe on this one to simply replace the sensor.



> Even if I were to get this sensor ...can I install this at home? is it
> as simple and opening the hood and poppin it in ..i dont have a ramp.
>

Yes, you can replace it at home.

If you crawl under your car, follow the exhaust pipe from the engine bay
towards the rear. About midship, you will find a device that looks like a
muffler, this is the Catalytic Converter (CAT). The sensor you are looking
for is mounted to the exhaust system after the CAT. The CAT is the first
bulb-shaped thingie behind the engine, and will generally be located under
the driver/passenger seats. It can move around from one auto maker to
another, so you will need to look closely. The sensor you are looking for
will be a device that has wires comuing out of it, and it is mounted
directly to the exhaust pipe.




> Jeff, where did you get the Bosch sensors from ...are these
> specifially made for corollas? Is this something which I can find at
> the local autozone or pepboys.
>

O2 Sensors are made by Bosch for every application I have ever wanted one
for. My favorite parts store in my area is NAPA, but my NAPA is better than
most, as far as people have told me. In any case, Bosch parts enjoy
availability as standard replacement parts at most parts stores. I found
that they always fit well, and there is no need to splice the connectors (as
Ray warns about).

FOR THE RECORD
I would be leary of any parts where one was required to splice and solder
wires. I think Ray is spot-on with this warning. Having a guy on the street,
like you and I, splice and solder wires is a recipe for disaster -- or at
least for unreliable operation of the affected sensor.



> Also the dealer mentioned that the corolla (96 make) has 2
> sensors ..front and back. "Bank 1 Sensor 2" means the front one?
>

No, Bank 1 Sensor 2 means the back one. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the front. You
need the sensor that is AFTER the CAT. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is BEFORE the CAT.

If you poke your head into the engine bay and locate the exhaust manifold,
the O2 Sensor that is Bank 1 Sensor 1 will be found right after all of the
exhaust tubes form each cylinder all converge to a single pipe. Follow this
pipe down, and you will eventually find the CAT. Bank 1 Sensor 2 is
immediately after the CAT.






> Cheers
>
>
> Cheers,
> Naresh
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 16, 9:46 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>> <shett...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1171675627.674026.220460@l53g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>>
>> > My 96 corolla DX 1.8L 4cyl, flunked the emission test (state of ct)
>> > with the following
>> > reason code:
>> > P0141:O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
>>
>> Sensor 2 is the one located after the catalytic converter so it is
>> unlikely
>> that anyone touched it when replacing the exhaust manifold.
>>
>>
>>
>> > I recently spent $400+ and replaced the exhaust manifold &
>> > gaskets(dealer parts) at a local Meineke. They never mentioned about a
>> > broken o2 sensor. I called the dealer and found out that these o2
>> > sensors go for $160.
>> > The shady local emission place guy didnt mention about how much he
>> > would charge to get this fixed. Can I use a after mkt item? I have 30
>> > days to reappear for a retest.
>> > Is this something which I can fix or do I need to pay a visit to the
>> > shop?
>> > Any suggestions?
>>
>> > ~~N
>>
>> If would check the O2 sensor heater circuit with a volt meter to see if
>> you
>> have an open circuit before replacing it.
>>
>> O2 sensors are pretty easy to replace - unplug it, remove it, and reverse
>> the process.
>>
>> You can use an aftermarket O2 sensor, although be aware that some do not
>> have a plug that matches the factory harness plug so you have to snip the
>> plug off of the old sensor, solder the new wires, and apply some heat
>> shrink
>> tubing to use it. Look for an aftermarket sensor with a plug that
>> matches
>> the factory harness or use OEM.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>
>

<shettync@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1171816036.119389.45120@s48g2000cws.googlegro ups.com...
> Will the universal type sensor work or do I need an OEM replacement? I
> checked NAPA , the OEM repl. costs twice
> as much as the universal. But he mentioned about splitting or
> something in those lines..?
>
> cheers,
> n
>

A universal O2 sensor will work, but look for one with the factory connector
to avoid having to solder wires.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message
news:6117a$45d8a1b9$47c2b532$30825@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
>
> <shettync@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1171816036.119389.45120@s48g2000cws.googlegro ups.com...
>> Will the universal type sensor work or do I need an OEM replacement? I
>> checked NAPA , the OEM repl. costs twice
>> as much as the universal. But he mentioned about splitting or
>> something in those lines..?
>>
>> cheers,
>> n
>>
>
> A universal O2 sensor will work, but look for one with the factory
> connector to avoid having to solder wires.
> --


What Ray said.

If you can remove the old one and carry it to the store, a universal
replacement will be fine if it has the same connector. If there is a
requirement to cut and splice wires to use the universal type, then the OEM
replacement is a bargain.