geronimo wrote:
> It didn't run *not* because it was being flooded out by too much gas.
> The mechanic who had worked on it had the camshaft set so that with
> #1 piston a TDC, the rotor was on #3 sparkplug! I reinstalled the fuel
> rail, reset the camshaft timing, and it fired right up, runs fine!
> Also I found the real cause of what he was trying to fix by
> replacing a $50 fuel pump relay.....the problem of it suddenly dying
> intermittently. I looked the fuse panel over, and the fuse in #1
> position for the fuel pump power was totally shot! It overheated
> sometime in the past...the plastic around the socket opening melted,
> the two fuse contacts were black and totally loosened. All it would
> take is a bump and the fuel pump would shut down with the fuse that
> loose. So that was an easy fix, I just broke out the bad/burned fuse
> socket and put a pigtail fuse holder in its place.
>
> Now the problem is that the low beam headlights do not work. The
> high beams will work if you pull the stalk backward, but they do not
> latch on, so they are only on as long as the stalk is held rearward.
> The mechanic was working on the fuse/relay panel when he replaced
> the fuel pump relay. So I think it is something he induced. I noticed
> that there is one relay base that has (I think) four wires going to
> it---identified as relay F in Haynes manual. The base is there, but
> there is no relay. But Haynes manual says it is for front fog lights
> which the car doesn't have. So hopefully the Haynes manual is right
> and that has nothing to do with the problem.
>
> There is a red round relay (A) which I believe is the bulb failure
> sense relay for the low beam lights. At least the Chilton 90-98 manual
> shows only the low beam lights powered through it. So this is a
> possible cause I guess. The Haynes manual says that relay K on the
> front row is the central locking/main lighting relay.....maybe it is
> feeding low beam power ? Unfortunately I don't have either relay.
> Advice?


Wow, I would not let that mechanic anywhere near my car again if I were
you, he missed checking some of the most obvious things, wasted time
doing other things, and then failed to align the camshaft correctly when
putting it back together. It takes a special kind of incompetence to do
that.

The red can is the bulb failure sensor, you could pop the cover and see
how the soldering on the circuit boards looks. Fuel pump relays can
easily be fixed this same way.

geronimo wrote:
> James:
>
>
> Also, to make matters even worse, when it went into this mechanics
> shop it had a working radio, a very nice one. When I got car to my
> house, the plug-in front had disappeared. Are replacement front
> panels hard to get? The mechanic is asking what brand of radio it is
> as he has a few panels in his office. But....the brand name was on the
> front panel! Now I have to figure out how to get the radio itself
> pulled out so I can look for model/ p/n. Don't have a clue. There must
> be some sort of fasteners or clips accessible from the bottom...while
> I have the fuse/relay panel out to fix headlights.
>
>

Is this an aftermarket radio? Usually they come with some special
release tools to remove it from the sleeve. Without those, getting it
out will be difficult.


> THe other issue perhaps you can help with is that I found a
> two-contact connector right ckose to the block under intake manifold
> just dangling! It comes out of a harness that passes by IAC
> control valve, going on towards the block, and I think this same
> harness goes to the two temp sensors under the intake manifold. There
> isn't a code for knock sensor being set, but I think this engine is
> supposed to have one....but I don't find a sensor underneath the
> intake manifold that is not plugged in. From the Chilton manual, it
> is positioned about in the area where the knock sensor should be, but
> I've never seen it. I think it mounts with one large bolt.
>
>

That does sound like it could be the knock sensor wire. The sensor is a
round puck that should be bolted to the block in that general area.

geronimo wrote:
>
> I think it is an aftermarket radio, but it fits in the dash like OEM.
> Felt around underneath the radio, but couldn't see how to release it,
> so I am just hosed as far as radio.
>


Well you can remove the whole assembly to get to it that way, I forget
how I did that now, does anyone know if this car has the same style
radio cubby as my '87?

geronimo wrote:
> James: well the radio is a small issue. The speedometer doesn't
> work, the sender in the differential probably is shot. For some
> months it was intmt before dying altogether. I did check the
> connector to it and it was OK, no broken wires. This is a $90 part
> new from RockAuto.com.... A bit steep, so you wouldn't have saved that
> from the Volvo you parted out, did you? The local junkyards never seem
> to have 740 parts....I wonder if the 92 240s (if there was a 240 that
> year) and the 940s used the same sender? Thanks, Geronimo
>
>
>


I've never seen or heard of one of those senders failing in a Volvo,
*ever*. In theory it could happen, but that would be the absolute last
place I looked. Start by checking the fuse for the instruments, then
look at the speedo itself and the wire to the sender.

geronimo wrote:
> I found an entire 92 740 turbo inst cluster for $37.00 on
> eBay....maybe it will fix the turbo boost and temp gauge as well!
>


The turbo boost guage is mechanical, if it isn't working the hose popped
off or split somewhere.

James Sweet wrote:
> geronimo wrote:
>> James:
>>
>> Also, to make matters even worse, when it went into this mechanics
>> shop it had a working radio, a very nice one. When I got car to my
>> house, the plug-in front had disappeared. Are replacement front
>> panels hard to get? The mechanic is asking what brand of radio it is
>> as he has a few panels in his office. But....the brand name was on the
>> front panel! Now I have to figure out how to get the radio itself
>> pulled out so I can look for model/ p/n. Don't have a clue. There must
>> be some sort of fasteners or clips accessible from the bottom...while
>> I have the fuse/relay panel out to fix headlights.
>>
>
> Is this an aftermarket radio? Usually they come with some special
> release tools to remove it from the sleeve. Without those, getting it
> out will be difficult.
>
>
>> THe other issue perhaps you can help with is that I found a
>> two-contact connector right ckose to the block under intake manifold
>> just dangling! It comes out of a harness that passes by IAC
>> control valve, going on towards the block, and I think this same
>> harness goes to the two temp sensors under the intake manifold. There
>> isn't a code for knock sensor being set, but I think this engine is
>> supposed to have one....but I don't find a sensor underneath the
>> intake manifold that is not plugged in. From the Chilton manual, it
>> is positioned about in the area where the knock sensor should be, but
>> I've never seen it. I think it mounts with one large bolt.
>>
>
> That does sound like it could be the knock sensor wire. The sensor is a
> round puck that should be bolted to the block in that general area.
Hi there if the fuel pump fuse is blown your pump in the tank has gone
causing your main pump to work over time and over heat .My wifes car did
the same thing .You wont notice much till your low on fuel then it goes
haywire as the small in tank pump cant deliver to the main pump.Simple
job but a real problem for a non volvo mechanic to figure out .

>
> Hi there if the fuel pump fuse is blown your pump in the tank has gone
> causing your main pump to work over time and over heat .My wifes car did
> the same thing .You wont notice much till your low on fuel then it goes
> haywire as the small in tank pump cant deliver to the main pump.Simple
> job but a real problem for a non volvo mechanic to figure out .

The main pump can fail in this way even if the in-tank pump is good. The
one on a friend's 240 did several years ago, it was pulling so much
current the relay socket melted down.