The local shop dropped the bomb Friday and said my evaporator has a
sizable leak. Can someone tell me how they know this, especially since the
evaporator is hidden behind the dash? They couldn't find a leak in one of
the hoses, but they said there must be a leak since it's got oil on it.

Just curious ... also be/c they didn't charge me anything in the process.

Mike

> The local shop dropped the bomb Friday and said my evaporator has a
> sizable leak. Can someone tell me how they know this, especially since the
> evaporator is hidden behind the dash? They couldn't find a leak in one of
> the hoses, but they said there must be a leak since it's got oil on it.
>
> Just curious ... also be/c they didn't charge me anything in the process.
>
> Mike

You put in a fluoruscent liquid in the system and with uv light you then
detect where it´s coming out.
Alternatively a few workshops use a sniffer that can "smell" where the leak
is.
A sizable leak should be easy to spot, small leaks where it takes several
months for the coolant to dissaper can be treacky to find.
Can you see any green color in the fan outlets in the middle of the
dashboard if you look closely?

Niels

I'll check for the green liquid later. I guess this isn't an expensive
thing since they did it for free in diagnosing my problems.

Niels Bengaard wrote:
> > The local shop dropped the bomb Friday and said my evaporator has a
> > sizable leak. Can someone tell me how they know this, especially since the
> > evaporator is hidden behind the dash? They couldn't find a leak in one of
> > the hoses, but they said there must be a leak since it's got oil on it.
> >
> > Just curious ... also be/c they didn't charge me anything in the process.
> >
> > Mike
>
> You put in a fluoruscent liquid in the system and with uv light you then
> detect where it´s coming out.
> Alternatively a few workshops use a sniffer that can "smell" where the leak
> is.
> A sizable leak should be easy to spot, small leaks where it takes several
> months for the coolant to dissaper can be treacky to find.
> Can you see any green color in the fan outlets in the middle of the
> dashboard if you look closely?
>
> Niels

<mikechiu@overlunch.com> wrote in message
news:1153149039.534991.138460@s13g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
I'll check for the green liquid later. I guess this isn't an expensive
thing since they did it for free in diagnosing my problems.


LOL! Think again. I'm afriad if the evap. has indeed got a leak, its a dash
out job on a LHD 70 series.

On RHD's we can do the evap swap by dismantling the glove box (no steering
column in the way)

Tim..

Oh, I was only referring to the putting the green dye into the system.
I am already dreading the 7-10 hour job and its drain on my pocketbook.

Mike


Tim.. wrote:
> <mikechiu@overlunch.com> wrote in message
> news:1153149039.534991.138460@s13g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I'll check for the green liquid later. I guess this isn't an expensive
> thing since they did it for free in diagnosing my problems.
>
>
> LOL! Think again. I'm afriad if the evap. has indeed got a leak, its a dash
> out job on a LHD 70 series.
>
> On RHD's we can do the evap swap by dismantling the glove box (no steering
> column in the way)
>
> Tim..

"Tim.." wrote:
>
> <mikechiu@overlunch.com> wrote in message
> news:1153149039.534991.138460@s13g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I'll check for the green liquid later. I guess this isn't an expensive
> thing since they did it for free in diagnosing my problems.
>
> LOL! Think again. I'm afriad if the evap. has indeed got a leak, its a dash
> out job on a LHD 70 series.
>
> On RHD's we can do the evap swap by dismantling the glove box (no steering
> column in the way)
>
> Tim..

I think the heater boxes are different too. The evaporator is on the
passenger side on LHD cars, but to get the evaporator out, you have to
disassemble the heater box. To disassemble the heater box, you have to
remove it from the car. To remove it from the car, you have to remove
the dash first. That's what causes the labour time.
It's interesting that you say the evaporator in RHD heater boxes can be
removed without this process.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

"Mike F" <"mikef2316()"@allsttream.nett> wrote in message
news:44BCCA7A.89DFA784@allsttream.nett...
> "Tim.." wrote:
> >
> > <mikechiu@overlunch.com> wrote in message
> > news:1153149039.534991.138460@s13g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> > I'll check for the green liquid later. I guess this isn't an expensive
> > thing since they did it for free in diagnosing my problems.
> >
> > LOL! Think again. I'm afriad if the evap. has indeed got a leak, its a
dash
> > out job on a LHD 70 series.
> >
> > On RHD's we can do the evap swap by dismantling the glove box (no
steering
> > column in the way)
> >
> > Tim..
>
> I think the heater boxes are different too. The evaporator is on the
> passenger side on LHD cars, but to get the evaporator out, you have to
> disassemble the heater box. To disassemble the heater box, you have to
> remove it from the car. To remove it from the car, you have to remove
> the dash first. That's what causes the labour time.
> It's interesting that you say the evaporator in RHD heater boxes can be
> removed without this process.
>

Yes- its a fairly simple nut n bolt R&R- thus-

Remove glove box as a complete unit.
Remove under dash panels / shelf both sides.
Peel back carpet both sides.
Remove radio, disconnect wiring.
Remove external amp (if fitted)
Clamp, or drain cooling system, remove heater hoses from bulkhad. Blow
coolant out of matrix.
Remove self tapping screws around bottom segment of heater casing.
Remove single bolt securing heater matrix feed pipes.
Lower and drop out heater matrix, remove from car.
Discharge a/c, disconnect lines, remove more self taping screws, drop evap.
down from heater box and remove.

Thats about it.

Tim..

"Tim (remove obvious)" wrote:
>
> Yes- its a fairly simple nut n bolt R&R- thus-
>
> Remove glove box as a complete unit.
> Remove under dash panels / shelf both sides.
> Peel back carpet both sides.
> Remove radio, disconnect wiring.
> Remove external amp (if fitted)
> Clamp, or drain cooling system, remove heater hoses from bulkhad. Blow
> coolant out of matrix.
> Remove self tapping screws around bottom segment of heater casing.
> Remove single bolt securing heater matrix feed pipes.
> Lower and drop out heater matrix, remove from car.
> Discharge a/c, disconnect lines, remove more self taping screws, drop evap.
> down from heater box and remove.
>
> Thats about it.
>
> Tim..

Interesting - I wonder if the LHD heater box will come apart in the car
with the heater core removed...

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

I am tryimg to do this exact same procedure on my Volvo S70. I have
taken apart the whole dash as well as disconnected the AC lines, but
am unsable to get to the evaporator. Looks like the whole climate
control unit (Huge set of pastic ducts etc), has to be removed as one.

How do you remove the heater hoses in the engine compartment? Is that
the only thing holding the entire climate control unit to the firewall.
(I have removed the large bolts on the top, as well as the AC pipes)

Thanks
Ramesh
--


Tim (remove obvious) wrote:
> "Mike F" <"mikef2316()"@allsttream.nett> wrote in message
> news:44BCCA7A.89DFA784@allsttream.nett...
> > "Tim.." wrote:
> > >
> > > <mikechiu@overlunch.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1153149039.534991.138460@s13g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> > > I'll check for the green liquid later. I guess this isn't an expensive
> > > thing since they did it for free in diagnosing my problems.
> > >
> > > LOL! Think again. I'm afriad if the evap. has indeed got a leak, its a
> dash
> > > out job on a LHD 70 series.
> > >
> > > On RHD's we can do the evap swap by dismantling the glove box (no
> steering
> > > column in the way)
> > >
> > > Tim..
> >
> > I think the heater boxes are different too. The evaporator is on the
> > passenger side on LHD cars, but to get the evaporator out, you have to
> > disassemble the heater box. To disassemble the heater box, you have to
> > remove it from the car. To remove it from the car, you have to remove
> > the dash first. That's what causes the labour time.
> > It's interesting that you say the evaporator in RHD heater boxes can be
> > removed without this process.
> >
>
> Yes- its a fairly simple nut n bolt R&R- thus-
>
> Remove glove box as a complete unit.
> Remove under dash panels / shelf both sides.
> Peel back carpet both sides.
> Remove radio, disconnect wiring.
> Remove external amp (if fitted)
> Clamp, or drain cooling system, remove heater hoses from bulkhad. Blow
> coolant out of matrix.
> Remove self tapping screws around bottom segment of heater casing.
> Remove single bolt securing heater matrix feed pipes.
> Lower and drop out heater matrix, remove from car.
> Discharge a/c, disconnect lines, remove more self taping screws, drop evap.
> down from heater box and remove.
>
> Thats about it.
>
> Tim..

In article <1153880013.170943.203090@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups .com>,
ramesh@comcast.net says...
> I am tryimg to do this exact same procedure on my Volvo S70. I have
> taken apart the whole dash as well as disconnected the AC lines, but
> am unsable to get to the evaporator. Looks like the whole climate
> control unit (Huge set of pastic ducts etc), has to be removed as one.
>
> How do you remove the heater hoses in the engine compartment? Is that
> the only thing holding the entire climate control unit to the firewall.
> (I have removed the large bolts on the top, as well as the AC pipes)
>
> Thanks
> Ramesh
> --
>
>
> Tim (remove obvious) wrote:
> > "Mike F" <"mikef2316()"@allsttream.nett> wrote in message
> > news:44BCCA7A.89DFA784@allsttream.nett...
> > > "Tim.." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > <mikechiu@overlunch.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:1153149039.534991.138460@s13g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> > > > I'll check for the green liquid later. I guess this isn't an expensive
> > > > thing since they did it for free in diagnosing my problems.
> > > >
> > > > LOL! Think again. I'm afriad if the evap. has indeed got a leak, its a
> > dash
> > > > out job on a LHD 70 series.
> > > >
> > > > On RHD's we can do the evap swap by dismantling the glove box (no
> > steering
> > > > column in the way)
> > > >
> > > > Tim..
> > >
> > > I think the heater boxes are different too. The evaporator is on the
> > > passenger side on LHD cars, but to get the evaporator out, you have to
> > > disassemble the heater box. To disassemble the heater box, you have to
> > > remove it from the car. To remove it from the car, you have to remove
> > > the dash first. That's what causes the labour time.
> > > It's interesting that you say the evaporator in RHD heater boxes can be
> > > removed without this process.
> > >
> >
> > Yes- its a fairly simple nut n bolt R&R- thus-
> >
> > Remove glove box as a complete unit.
> > Remove under dash panels / shelf both sides.
> > Peel back carpet both sides.
> > Remove radio, disconnect wiring.
> > Remove external amp (if fitted)
Pinch the plastic retainers on the heater pipes toward the hose and pull
the hoses away from the heater core. Catch the coolant in a pan below
the hoses. If you have some cap plugs or corks seal the heater core
pipes so that you don't drip antifreexe all over the inside of the car
while you wrestle the heater box out of there. Be careful of the servo
and bracket by the gas pedal. It takes a little fidgeting to work it out
with out breaking things.

Bob
--
The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.