I am reasonably sure that the puff of blue smoke on start (or after at
least a ~30 min rest) indicates an issue with deteriorating valve stem
seals.

The actual seals are cheap, but are they "easy" to remove/replace? I
can't seem to find any DIY info on their extraction/replacement. Where
is a good place to get the tools? I think at least two specizlied seal
tools are needed.

If it's not a good idea to attempt oneself, can anyone give me a
reasonable labor estimate (in hours) so I can budget?

Thanks!

>I am reasonably sure that the puff of blue smoke on start (or after at
> least a ~30 min rest) indicates an issue with deteriorating valve stem
> seals.
>
> The actual seals are cheap, but are they "easy" to remove/replace? I
> can't seem to find any DIY info on their extraction/replacement. Where
> is a good place to get the tools? I think at least two specizlied seal
> tools are needed.
>
> If it's not a good idea to attempt oneself, can anyone give me a
> reasonable labor estimate (in hours) so I can budget?
>
> Thanks!

Looks like a big job, according to my workshop manual it takes 9.3 hours to
install new ones.

Niels

bockdharma wrote:
>
> I am reasonably sure that the puff of blue smoke on start (or after at
> least a ~30 min rest) indicates an issue with deteriorating valve stem
> seals.
>
> The actual seals are cheap, but are they "easy" to remove/replace? I
> can't seem to find any DIY info on their extraction/replacement. Where
> is a good place to get the tools? I think at least two specizlied seal
> tools are needed.
>
> If it's not a good idea to attempt oneself, can anyone give me a
> reasonable labor estimate (in hours) so I can budget?
>
> Thanks!

I would say this is not a job for the do-it-yourselfer. If you don't
have the special tool to pull the upper half of the head straight up,
one end of the casting *WILL* crack off. Also, if you don't use the
right amount and kind of sealant between the 2 halves of the head, then
you will have oil leaks or block oil passages. This is a job best left
to an experienced Volvo specialist.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

Mike F wrote:
> bockdharma wrote:
> >
> > I am reasonably sure that the puff of blue smoke on start (or after at
> > least a ~30 min rest) indicates an issue with deteriorating valve stem
> > seals.
> >
> > The actual seals are cheap, but are they "easy" to remove/replace? I
> > can't seem to find any DIY info on their extraction/replacement. Where
> > is a good place to get the tools? I think at least two specizlied seal
> > tools are needed.
> >
> > If it's not a good idea to attempt oneself, can anyone give me a
> > reasonable labor estimate (in hours) so I can budget?
> >
> > Thanks!
>
> I would say this is not a job for the do-it-yourselfer. If you don't
> have the special tool to pull the upper half of the head straight up,
> one end of the casting *WILL* crack off. Also, if you don't use the
> right amount and kind of sealant between the 2 halves of the head, then
> you will have oil leaks or block oil passages. This is a job best left
> to an experienced Volvo specialist.
>
> --
> Mike F.
> Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.
>
> Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
> (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)


Thanks for the info. Checking around different forums, there is a
suggestion to actual use Auto-RX. I may do that, but I won't hold my
breath. At least I'll know I won't be having any sludge issues.

9.3 hours sounds like a TON of time to do this job. Wow. But I have
to agree that it sounds best left to a shop.

> Thanks for the info. Checking around different forums, there is a
> suggestion to actual use Auto-RX. I may do that, but I won't hold my
> breath. At least I'll know I won't be having any sludge issues.
>
> 9.3 hours sounds like a TON of time to do this job. Wow. But I have
> to agree that it sounds best left to a shop.

Have you seen any other with bad valve seals when you looked on the net? I
havent heard of that problem before, so I wouldnt look there first. Perhaps
a bad turbo if its a turbo?

Niels

"bockdharma" <bockdharma@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1153192412.958961.222140@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I am reasonably sure that the puff of blue smoke on start (or after at
> least a ~30 min rest) indicates an issue with deteriorating valve stem
> seals.
>
> The actual seals are cheap, but are they "easy" to remove/replace? I
> can't seem to find any DIY info on their extraction/replacement. Where
> is a good place to get the tools? I think at least two specizlied seal
> tools are needed.
>
> If it's not a good idea to attempt oneself, can anyone give me a
> reasonable labor estimate (in hours) so I can budget?

Valve stem seals are VERY unlikely- i've not known any to start seeping down
the stems on any white block 5 or 6 cylinder even after 200k+.

You're problem is likely crankcase pressurization from a blocked breather
tree on the throttle body.

As an aside, lifting the cam carrier / cams in / out / etc etc is not for
the faint hearted and definately NOT without the correct pullup/pulldown
tools, else it will end in disaster.

Tim..