I removed 3 of these from the local pick-n-pull, because they fit
practically all models back to forever, including the otherwise
cost-prohibitive replacement for vintage 544, 122, and 1800 models from the
'50s through the '70s.

Anyway, two 12" ratchet extensions provide enough length and flex in the
middle joint to get that 2nd nut from the rear. I haven't seen these seized
with rust in Texas, but you may consider an extra long straw/tube to get a
good shot of Liquid Wrench on the nut and bolt threads, and wait about a 1/2
hour to let it do the muscle work for you. Cheaper than broken ratchets.

"framed" <iandunham@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1179361472.278644.206010@k79g2000hse.googlegr oups.com...
> I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no
> avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the
> bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely
> inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18
> inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and
> all I did was break the ratchet extension.
>

On May 17, 11:52 pm, "Pat Quadlander" <pquadlan...@tx.rr.com> wrote:
> I removed 3 of these from the local pick-n-pull, because they fit
> practically all models back to forever, including the otherwise
> cost-prohibitive replacement for vintage 544, 122, and 1800 models from the
> '50s through the '70s.
>
> Anyway, two 12" ratchet extensions provide enough length and flex in the
> middle joint to get that 2nd nut from the rear. I haven't seen these seized
> with rust in Texas, but you may consider an extra long straw/tube to get a
> good shot of Liquid Wrench on the nut and bolt threads, and wait about a 1/2
> hour to let it do the muscle work for you. Cheaper than broken ratchets.
>
> "framed" <iandun...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1179361472.278644.206010@k79g2000hse.googlegr oups.com...
>
>
>
> > I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no
> > avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the
> > bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely
> > inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18
> > inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and
> > all I did was break the ratchet extension.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

With all the ratchet extensions I bought (18") it was like I was
coiling a spring every time I tried to apply pressure. Besides, I
couldn't get at it straight on, thereby necessitating the use of a
ratchet joint. I felt I was about to break something when I put all my
weight on it, and I also felt like the nut was not even about to budge.

"framed" <iandunham@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1179674443.526219.123330@w5g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
> On May 17, 11:52 pm, "Pat Quadlander" <pquadlan...@tx.rr.com> wrote:
>> I removed 3 of these from the local pick-n-pull, because they fit
>> practically all models back to forever, including the otherwise
>> cost-prohibitive replacement for vintage 544, 122, and 1800 models from
>> the
>> '50s through the '70s.
>>
>> Anyway, two 12" ratchet extensions provide enough length and flex in the
>> middle joint to get that 2nd nut from the rear. I haven't seen these
>> seized
>> with rust in Texas, but you may consider an extra long straw/tube to get
>> a
>> good shot of Liquid Wrench on the nut and bolt threads, and wait about a
>> 1/2
>> hour to let it do the muscle work for you. Cheaper than broken ratchets.
>>
>> "framed" <iandun...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1179361472.278644.206010@k79g2000hse.googlegr oups.com...
>>
>>
>>
>> > I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no
>> > avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the
>> > bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely
>> > inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18
>> > inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and
>> > all I did was break the ratchet extension.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> With all the ratchet extensions I bought (18") it was like I was
> coiling a spring every time I tried to apply pressure. Besides, I
> couldn't get at it straight on, thereby necessitating the use of a
> ratchet joint. I felt I was about to break something when I put all my
> weight on it, and I also felt like the nut was not even about to budge.
>
>
If you are saying the bolt has a nut on the back side, concentrate on that.
The bolt just won't loosen as long as the nut is tight.

If there is a nut and it is accessible enough, try this. Clamp a pair of
vise-grips on the nut as hard as you possibly can, then spray penetrant
(preferably not WD-40; use PB Blaster or other genuine penetrant) on the end
of the nut where the threads disappear into the nut, concentrating on the
area opposite where the vise-grips are clamped down. Let it soak up to half
an hour. If another pair of flats on the nut is accessible, clamp the
vise-grips down hard on those and repeat the spray and soak. Doing this
forces the threads together where the vise-grips are clamped down and opens
up a tiny gap 90 degrees from there. The penetrant can reach deep inside the
fitting and the force breaks any adhesions in the threads. I don't know how
much it reduces the torque, but every time I've had to resort to this
technique and been able to get access it has been successful in freeing the
nut.

If all fails, you may have to rent an impact driver and socket. Again, if
there is a nut don't put the driver on the bolt head - it will likely break
the bolt. But then it will come out....

Mike