Good Day All,

I did the test to get my error codes since the car is turnign over but
not firing up. It will start for a few seconds if it has been sitting
for awhile. Anyway my error codes and what the Volvo Code Retrieval
page says is wrong.

2 - 1 - 3 Throttle Switch Signal
2 - 3 - 2 Lamda Adjustment
1 - 1 - 3 Fuel Injectors

I am assuming I need to repalce the Throttle Switch and put new Fuel
Injectors in the car. Is it possible or recommended to use used ones
from the auto salvage yard if they look good? Is there anything I
should know before doing these 2 things. I know the Lamda adjustment is
the 02 Sensor (correct) and I will replace that but that is not what is
keeping my car from starting, so I been told.

I also did a coil wire test by removing the coil wire from the
distributor and turning the key and I saw very little spark very
random. I read on another thread that this means I should replace the
crank sensor. Is this correct?

Lastly, where is the crank sensor and Throttle Switch? I have searched
online and find a discribtion of what they are but no photos of where
they are.

Thanks again for all the advice. It means alot to us. Cheers

OK, now I feel a little dumb by not reading further down the listings since
you have pulled the codes.

I still recommend cleaning the grounds on the intake manifold and the
switches and contacts from my other post. The ECU references those grounds
as part of its self diagnostics as well as relying on them for component
grounds. So if those grounds are bad, or the connections are bad,
everything is screwed up.

I had the same set of codes when I bought my 90. The sellers dumped it
after the mechanic they used put over $1400 worth of parts at it and still
could not get the codes to clear. Had to sell since they could not renew
registration.

I cleaned the grounds and have not seen them since. See rational below.

The ECU references engine signals based upon resistance and voltage flow.
Voltage is affected by resistance. (Ohm's Law). So any extra resistance can
really screw the system a lot.

Also since the ECU can only store 3 codes, any that were set before you
checked may have been wiped out. Pull the codes with a minute after
clearing them and restarting. You may end up with one or two which helps
narrow down the search.

213 needs to be checked with a Ohm meter to be sure. It could be dirty and
shorting to ground.
Throttle switch is toward the firewall side of the furthest most left part
of the intake manifold.

232 The Lambda system is compensating at idle for a mixture imbalance caused
by
113 faulty injectors.

Is the mixture rich or lean? Pull a plug or two and see. Dark and wet,
rich. White and dry, lean.

The injectors are pulsed by the ECU via the grounds on the intake manifold.
IF the injectors are not grounded properly, also through the same grounds,
the injector will not fire properly or at all.

Duane

In article <1156202439.534391.151190@75g2000cwc.googlegroups. com>,
"Glenn and Janice" <glennandjanice@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Good Day All,
>
> I did the test to get my error codes since the car is turnign over
> but not firing up. It will start for a few seconds if it has been
> sitting for awhile. Anyway my error codes and what the Volvo Code
> Retrieval page says is wrong.
>
> 2 - 1 - 3 Throttle Switch Signal
> 2 - 3 - 2 Lamda Adjustment
> 1 - 1 - 3 Fuel Injectors
>
> I am assuming I need to repalce the Throttle Switch and put new Fuel
> Injectors in the car. Is it possible or recommended to use used ones
> from the auto salvage yard if they look good? Is there anything I
> should know before doing these 2 things. I know the Lamda adjustment
> is the 02 Sensor (correct) and I will replace that but that is not
> what is keeping my car from starting, so I been told.

I would advise against replacing things willy-nilly. It's quite
possible that only one thing is wrong and that this has caused the
others to trigger.

> I also did a coil wire test by removing the coil wire from the
> distributor and turning the key and I saw very little spark very
> random. I read on another thread that this means I should replace the
> crank sensor. Is this correct?
>
> Lastly, where is the crank sensor and Throttle Switch? I have
> searched online and find a discribtion of what they are but no photos
> of where they are.
>
> Thanks again for all the advice. It means alot to us. Cheers

Hmmm. I think I would start with the crank position sensor- partly
because it's inexpensive! However, I would also counsel waiting for
wiser heads than mine to weigh in on the discussion.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdet...ts=1&code=4563

If this gets the car running, then clear the codes and wait and see.

Duane - I did a test on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.and when I unlpug
the thinner hose and start the car no gas comes out at all - When I
unplug the thicker short hose, fuel streams steady and fast out of it
so the fuel is not bypassing the FPR I think. I will replace it first
tomorrow and go from there - I will also clean all the grounds and
connectos to see if that helps also -

Is the ECU located in the car at the feet of the passengers

Duane - I did a test on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.and when I unlpug
the thinner hose and start the car no gas comes out at all - When I
unplug the thicker short hose, fuel streams steady and fast out of it
so the fuel is not bypassing the FPR I think. I will replace it first
tomorrow and go from there - I will also clean all the grounds and
connectos to see if that helps also -

Is the ECU located in the car at the feet of the passengers

In article <1ksGg.42972$Nt2.7247@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>,
dhoberg@kc.rr.com says...
> OK, now I feel a little dumb by not reading further down the listings since
> you have pulled the codes.
>
> I still recommend cleaning the grounds on the intake manifold and the
> switches and contacts from my other post. The ECU references those grounds
> as part of its self diagnostics as well as relying on them for component
> grounds. So if those grounds are bad, or the connections are bad,
> everything is screwed up.
>
> I had the same set of codes when I bought my 90. The sellers dumped it
> after the mechanic they used put over $1400 worth of parts at it and still
> could not get the codes to clear. Had to sell since they could not renew
> registration.
>
> I cleaned the grounds and have not seen them since. See rational below.
>
> The ECU references engine signals based upon resistance and voltage flow.
> Voltage is affected by resistance. (Ohm's Law). So any extra resistance can
> really screw the system a lot.
>
> Also since the ECU can only store 3 codes, any that were set before you
> checked may have been wiped out. Pull the codes with a minute after
> clearing them and restarting. You may end up with one or two which helps
> narrow down the search.
>
> 213 needs to be checked with a Ohm meter to be sure. It could be dirty and
> shorting to ground.
> Throttle switch is toward the firewall side of the furthest most left part
> of the intake manifold.
>
> 232 The Lambda system is compensating at idle for a mixture imbalance caused
> by
> 113 faulty injectors.
>
> Is the mixture rich or lean? Pull a plug or two and see. Dark and wet,
> rich. White and dry, lean.
>
> The injectors are pulsed by the ECU via the grounds on the intake manifold.
> IF the injectors are not grounded properly, also through the same grounds,
> the injector will not fire properly or at all.
>
> Duane
>
>
>
Check the O2 sensor output. Usually that cluster of codes means it's
bad.

Bob
--
The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.

i also wanted to find out the answer for tat problem...if u could solve
plz let me knw

regards
<a href=www.gamestotal.com>free</a>
<a href=http://www.stormloader.com/users/unification/>MMOG</a>
<a href=http://unificationwars.110mb.com>MOG</a>

i also wanted to find out the answer for tat problem...if u could solve
plz let me knw

regards
<a href=www.gamestotal.com>free</a>
<a href=http://www.stormloader.com/users/unification/>MMOG</a>
<a href=http://unificationwars.110mb.com>MOG</a>

> >
> >
> Check the O2 sensor output. Usually that cluster of codes means it's
> bad.
>
> Bob
> --
The O2 Sensor wouldnt cause the car to not start - it would just make
it run terrible if it was bad

It appears the FPR is functioning and not leaking. Why replace it??
Replace it only if leaking, it does not maintain pressure, or it does not
react to vacuum changes. The first is not happening and the other two
require testing.

ECU needs to know engine temp and amount of air entering system to determine
how long to pusle injectors to deliver a fuel-air mix that will ignite.
Injectors have a fixed opening that will deliver a known volume of fuel at a
given pressure. At idle, the ECU also adjusts air entering system via the
air control valve based upon RPM info.

The system will not pump fuel if the RPM signal is missing, so any fuel flow
while cranking indicates the RPM sensor is functioning.

O2 sensor comes online after about two minutes, sometimes longer, and is
used only after the ECU stops compensating for a cold engine.

A no start condition or poor running within two minutes of startup is not
caused by the O2 sensor unless the ECU is faulty. And most ECU's are bullet
proof unless tested incorrectly.

A bad air or dirty air control valve can really screw with an engine. With
a closed throttle plate the only way air can get to the engine is via that
valve. If open poor running lean, if closed poor running rich.

I strongly recommend the purchase of a Bentley manual to assit in this
diagnoses. An investment of $40 could save many times that in parts not
needed and time wasted.

It has a section that guides the user through testing the ECU outputs to see
if the varius critical components are reacting to output signals from the
ECU.

Duane