Thanks for your help--I'll keep my eyes open for a dealer service
manual. First thing I need to do is get some tires and take care of the
brakes that grab if I step on the pedal too hard. Can anyone tell me
what causes that and how to remedy it?

In article <1156667680.663936.241860@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups .com>,
stevek <decardo@gmail.com> wrote:
>Thanks for your help--I'll keep my eyes open for a dealer service
>manual. First thing I need to do is get some tires and take care of the
>brakes that grab if I step on the pedal too hard. Can anyone tell me
>what causes that and how to remedy it?

Grabbing brakes are usually the result of contamination on the discs,
most commonly brake fluid leaking from a caliper. You can clean the
discs, but the pads must be replaced (which is such a small expense
that you should go ahead and do it when swapping the caliper). As
always, you must replace pads on both wheels on an axle at the same
time.

There are several sources for mechanical parts; http://www.ipdusa.com
has a Vintage Volvo section, and Don Thibault at http://www.pi800.com
can probably provide you with calipers (he had some that would fit my
'72 145) and pads.

And if you want to turn it into a sleeper, this will probably work
on your car: http://www.v-performance.com/products.html and click
on "supercharger system".


Gary

--
Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/

Astronomers have developed a definition of "planet" which excludes Pluto.
I'm developing a definition of "scientist" which excludes astronomers.

Gary Heston wrote:

> In article <1156667680.663936.241860@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups .com>,
> stevek <decardo@gmail.com> wrote:
> >Thanks for your help--I'll keep my eyes open for a dealer service
> >manual. First thing I need to do is get some tires and take care of the
> >brakes that grab if I step on the pedal too hard. Can anyone tell me
> >what causes that and how to remedy it?
>
> Grabbing brakes are usually the result of contamination on the discs,
> most commonly brake fluid leaking from a caliper. You can clean the
> discs, but the pads must be replaced (which is such a small expense
> that you should go ahead and do it when swapping the caliper). As
> always, you must replace pads on both wheels on an axle at the same
> time.
>
> There are several sources for mechanical parts; http://www.ipdusa.com
> has a Vintage Volvo section, and Don Thibault at http://www.pi800.com
> can probably provide you with calipers (he had some that would fit my
> '72 145) and pads.
>
> And if you want to turn it into a sleeper, this will probably work
> on your car: http://www.v-performance.com/products.html and click
> on "supercharger system".
>
> Gary
>
> --
> Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/
>
> Astronomers have developed a definition of "planet" which excludes Pluto.
> I'm developing a definition of "scientist" which excludes astronomers.

Discs??? Hey we're talking drums if it's an amazon, aren't we?

/ Johan

Johan Plane wrote:
> Gary Heston wrote:
>
>
>>In article <1156667680.663936.241860@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups .com>,
>>stevek <decardo@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for your help--I'll keep my eyes open for a dealer service
>>>manual. First thing I need to do is get some tires and take care of the
>>>brakes that grab if I step on the pedal too hard. Can anyone tell me
>>>what causes that and how to remedy it?
>>
>>Grabbing brakes are usually the result of contamination on the discs,
>>most commonly brake fluid leaking from a caliper. You can clean the
>>discs, but the pads must be replaced (which is such a small expense
>>that you should go ahead and do it when swapping the caliper). As
>>always, you must replace pads on both wheels on an axle at the same
>>time.
>>
>>There are several sources for mechanical parts; http://www.ipdusa.com
>>has a Vintage Volvo section, and Don Thibault at http://www.pi800.com
>>can probably provide you with calipers (he had some that would fit my
>>'72 145) and pads.
>>
>>And if you want to turn it into a sleeper, this will probably work
>>on your car: http://www.v-performance.com/products.html and click
>>on "supercharger system".
>>
>>Gary
>>
>>--
>>Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/
>>
>>Astronomers have developed a definition of "planet" which excludes Pluto.
>>I'm developing a definition of "scientist" which excludes astronomers.
>
>
> Discs??? Hey we're talking drums if it's an amazon, aren't we?
>
> / Johan
>
>

The early Amazons had drums on all four wheels. Around about
1965, however, they went to front disk/rear drum brakes. In '69
they got a US-spec dual master cylinder.

"Johan Plane" <johan.plane@telia.com> wrote in message
news:44F4BCAA.76821677@telia.com...
>
> Discs??? Hey we're talking drums if it's an amazon, aren't we?
>

In either case, discs or drums, brake fluid from a leaking slave
cylinder/caliper is always my first thought for grabby brakes. On drums it
makes the brakes extremely grabby, nearly unusable.

Mike

I believe they're drums in rear, discs in front. I just drove it home
yesterday about 15 miles and on first using the brakes they grab and
lock up one time and then were fine. Didn't really have great stopping
power but they didn't lock up after that first time and it doesn't
sound like metal to metal. The car was pretty much sitting for a year
and a half.

"stevek" <decardo@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1157066345.372407.49570@p79g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
>I believe they're drums in rear, discs in front. I just drove it home
> yesterday about 15 miles and on first using the brakes they grab and
> lock up one time and then were fine. Didn't really have great stopping
> power but they didn't lock up after that first time and it doesn't
> sound like metal to metal. The car was pretty much sitting for a year
> and a half.
>
That changes the complexion a bit - contaminated linings are consistent
about locking up. Now I'm thinking about the shoes on the rear drums kicking
up. If the linings are still in decent shape, sandpaper (with attention to
beveling the leading and trailing edges) may do the trick.

To be clear, you are saying the brakes suddenly become more forceful rather
than seeming to ratchet on and not release?

Mike

Michael Pardee wrote:
> "stevek" <decardo@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1157066345.372407.49570@p79g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
>
>>I believe they're drums in rear, discs in front. I just drove it home
>>yesterday about 15 miles and on first using the brakes they grab and
>>lock up one time and then were fine. Didn't really have great stopping
>>power but they didn't lock up after that first time and it doesn't
>>sound like metal to metal. The car was pretty much sitting for a year
>>and a half.
>>
>
> That changes the complexion a bit - contaminated linings are consistent
> about locking up. Now I'm thinking about the shoes on the rear drums kicking
> up. If the linings are still in decent shape, sandpaper (with attention to
> beveling the leading and trailing edges) may do the trick.
>
> To be clear, you are saying the brakes suddenly become more forceful rather
> than seeming to ratchet on and not release?
>
> Mike
>
>

I'm going to 'stick' with my original guess: sticking
calipers. If they weren't too rusty, just using them regularly
may solve the problem.

Today I only drove the car a very short distance slowly to change
parking spaces. When I stepped on the brakes they didn't grab or lock
up (that's the same thing isn't it?) Perhaps with use they're getting
better or perhaps this is the calm before disaster. I wish I new how it
should feel when everythings right but I'm used to power brakes so I
can't tell. Tommorow I'll drive around a bit more and see if they still
grab.

Michael Pardee wrote:
> "stevek" <decardo@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1157066345.372407.49570@p79g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> >I believe they're drums in rear, discs in front. I just drove it home
> > yesterday about 15 miles and on first using the brakes they grab and
> > lock up one time and then were fine. Didn't really have great stopping
> > power but they didn't lock up after that first time and it doesn't
> > sound like metal to metal. The car was pretty much sitting for a year
> > and a half.
> >
> That changes the complexion a bit - contaminated linings are consistent
> about locking up. Now I'm thinking about the shoes on the rear drums kicking
> up. If the linings are still in decent shape, sandpaper (with attention to
> beveling the leading and trailing edges) may do the trick.
>
> To be clear, you are saying the brakes suddenly become more forceful rather
> than seeming to ratchet on and not release?
>
> Mike