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Discuss Brake rotor protectant in the alt.trucks.chevy forum at Car Dealer Forums; Friend of mine, has a Buick station wagon, 1993. Neglected to take the grease or ...
  1. #1
    Stormin Mormon
    Guest

    Default Brake rotor protectant

    Friend of mine, has a Buick station wagon, 1993. Neglected to take the
    grease or wax or whatever off the rotors last time he did front
    brakes. We aren't sure, but maybe that was part of why he needed brake
    pads and rotors again so soon. Does anyone know?

    As he was about to put the rotor on, I handed him some spray solvent
    and paper towels, he didn't know about degreasing the rotors.

    Does it make a big difference?

    --
    Christopher A. Young
    Learn more about Jesus
    www.lds.org
    ..






    › See More: Brake rotor protectant

  2. #2
    DogDiesel
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant


    "Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:i9475r$csr$1@news.eternal-september.org...
    > Friend of mine, has a Buick station wagon, 1993. Neglected to take the
    > grease or wax or whatever off the rotors last time he did front
    > brakes. We aren't sure, but maybe that was part of why he needed brake
    > pads and rotors again so soon. Does anyone know?
    >
    > As he was about to put the rotor on, I handed him some spray solvent
    > and paper towels, he didn't know about degreasing the rotors.
    >
    > Does it make a big difference?
    >
    > --
    > Christopher A. Young
    > Learn more about Jesus
    > www.lds.org
    > .
    >
    >
    >Well it depends. Generally the grease and oil will burn off. The fact you
    >say you need brakes and rotors, makes me think either the rotors needed
    >turned last pad change. And they ate the pads faster. Or the pads weren't
    >very good. And most aren't these days. They the wore down faster and ate
    >the rotors .


    What was wrong with the rotors . Did the steel backing plates of the pads
    eat grooves in them. Which means the pads should of been changed sooner.
    Were they pitted from rust. Which means they probably ate the new pads.
    But you should of felt it driving.

    Or were they just rusted completely out.


    Point being. My Toyota ate the pads at 15,000 miles because my rotors were
    pitted. From the car sitting too long. I heard them squealers grinding
    and kept driving for a while . And grooved the rotors. I got new rotors
    and brakes and just checked them a month ago. And at 21,000 miles they
    aren't half worn yet. Rotors look excellent.

    The noise was rust chunks on the rear drums hitting the backing plates.
    Which is a good thing here.



  3. #3
    Stormin Mormon
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant

    >
    >Well it depends. Generally the grease and oil will burn off. The
    >fact you
    >say you need brakes and rotors, makes me think either the rotors
    >needed
    >turned last pad change. And they ate the pads faster. Or the pads
    >weren't
    >very good. And most aren't these days. They the wore down faster
    >and ate
    >the rotors .


    CY: Not sure, some of that.

    What was wrong with the rotors . Did the steel backing plates of the
    pads
    eat grooves in them. Which means the pads should of been changed
    sooner.

    CY: yes, the steel plates grooved the rotors. I'm sure the pads ought
    have been changed sooner.

    Were they pitted from rust. Which means they probably ate the new
    pads.
    But you should of felt it driving.

    CY: And the rotors were also rusty. It was someone else's car, so I'm
    not sure how long he ignored the brakes.


    Or were they just rusted completely out.

    CY: The inner pads were metal to metal.

    Point being. My Toyota ate the pads at 15,000 miles because my rotors
    were
    pitted. From the car sitting too long. I heard them squealers
    grinding
    and kept driving for a while . And grooved the rotors. I got new
    rotors
    and brakes and just checked them a month ago. And at 21,000 miles
    they
    aren't half worn yet. Rotors look excellent.

    CY: This is a daily driver, so it's not rust like that.

    The noise was rust chunks on the rear drums hitting the backing
    plates.
    Which is a good thing here.

    CY: It's not a good thing here or there. It's not a good t hing any
    where.




  4. #4
    4546@mydaja.com
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant

    On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 08:02:08 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
    <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote:

    >Friend of mine, has a Buick station wagon, 1993. Neglected to take the
    >grease or wax or whatever off the rotors last time he did front
    >brakes. We aren't sure, but maybe that was part of why he needed brake
    >pads and rotors again so soon. Does anyone know?
    >
    >As he was about to put the rotor on, I handed him some spray solvent
    >and paper towels, he didn't know about degreasing the rotors.
    >
    >Does it make a big difference?


    Not really. But after you removed the old rotor's. I'ts a good idea to
    spray some brake cleaner on everything else. And let it sit for a
    minute. I usually replace the pads, rotor's and bearings. With NAPPA
    parts. You can get away with least expensive rotor's. I replaced them,
    August of 09. Drive 90 miles a day. In stop and go traffic. They are
    doing well. I drive a 2,001 S-10. Maybe he had a sticking caliper?

  5. #5
    Steve W.
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant

    Stormin Mormon wrote:
    > Friend of mine, has a Buick station wagon, 1993. Neglected to take the
    > grease or wax or whatever off the rotors last time he did front
    > brakes. We aren't sure, but maybe that was part of why he needed brake
    > pads and rotors again so soon. Does anyone know?
    >
    > As he was about to put the rotor on, I handed him some spray solvent
    > and paper towels, he didn't know about degreasing the rotors.
    >
    > Does it make a big difference?
    >


    Not really. The coating isn't enough of a coat to really be a problem.
    Read your other post. Sounds like the caliper was sticking and caused
    the problem.

    --
    Steve W.
    (\___/)
    (='.'=)
    (")_(")

  6. #6
    Stormin Mormon
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant

    Could have been a sticky caliper. Both rotors were badly grooved,
    inside surface. The outer pads were OK.

    --
    Christopher A. Young
    Learn more about Jesus
    www.lds.org
    ..


    "Steve W." <csr684@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
    news:i95qjo$7lu$2@speranza.aioe.org...
    Stormin Mormon wrote:
    > Friend of mine, has a Buick station wagon, 1993. Neglected to take
    > the
    > grease or wax or whatever off the rotors last time he did front
    > brakes. We aren't sure, but maybe that was part of why he needed
    > brake
    > pads and rotors again so soon. Does anyone know?
    >
    > As he was about to put the rotor on, I handed him some spray
    > solvent
    > and paper towels, he didn't know about degreasing the rotors.
    >
    > Does it make a big difference?
    >


    Not really. The coating isn't enough of a coat to really be a problem.
    Read your other post. Sounds like the caliper was sticking and caused
    the problem.

    --
    Steve W.
    (\___/)
    (='.'=)
    (")_(")



  7. #7
    Steve W.
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant

    Stormin Mormon wrote:
    > Could have been a sticky caliper. Both rotors were badly grooved,
    > inside surface. The outer pads were OK.
    >


    Classic signs of stuck calipers. They should slide freely and wear both
    sides evenly. When they hang up the piston only moves the inner pad and
    you get that problem.

    --
    Steve W.
    (\___/)
    (='.'=)
    (")_(")

  8. #8
    Stormin Mormon
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant

    Oh, bother. we're in to the rainy season, and the calipers got put
    back on. I wonder if it would help to remove them (sigh, again) and
    sand and scrap the slides where the calipers move. Paint the glides
    with Neversieze, and put it all back together. Might that help? Or is
    it more likely to be rusty caliper under the rubber seal?

    --
    Christopher A. Young
    Learn more about Jesus
    www.lds.org
    ..


    "Steve W." <csr684NOT@yahoo.com> wrote in message
    news:3L5uo.367$FM2.139@newsfe16.iad...
    Stormin Mormon wrote:
    > Could have been a sticky caliper. Both rotors were badly grooved,
    > inside surface. The outer pads were OK.
    >


    Classic signs of stuck calipers. They should slide freely and wear
    both
    sides evenly. When they hang up the piston only moves the inner pad
    and
    you get that problem.

    --
    Steve W.
    (\___/)
    (='.'=)
    (")_(")



  9. #9
    Steve W.
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant

    Stormin Mormon wrote:
    > Oh, bother. we're in to the rainy season, and the calipers got put
    > back on. I wonder if it would help to remove them (sigh, again) and
    > sand and scrap the slides where the calipers move. Paint the glides
    > with Neversieze, and put it all back together. Might that help? Or is
    > it more likely to be rusty caliper under the rubber seal?
    >


    I use Sil-glide on the slides and pins. It's a waterproof ultra high
    temp silicone based grease. Once on it doesn't come off easily and water
    /salt has NO effect on it. Wear gloves when using and try REALLY hard
    not to get it on clothes. It's a bear to get out...

    Using it makes a BIG difference up here in the NE.

    --
    Steve W.

  10. #10
    aarcuda69062
    Guest

    Default Re: Brake rotor protectant

    In article <i9aq45$j2e$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
    "Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote:

    > Oh, bother. we're in to the rainy season, and the calipers got put
    > back on. I wonder if it would help to remove them (sigh, again) and
    > sand and scrap the slides where the calipers move.


    Should be standard procedure on any brake job... All rust build up
    should be removed back down to the parent metal.

    > Paint the glides
    > with Neversieze, and put it all back together.


    Too thick, the pads and caliper will scrape it off.
    Use the SylGlide like Steve says or use a purpose based brake lube like
    CeramiLube.

    > Might that help? Or is
    > it more likely to be rusty caliper under the rubber seal?


    A seized piston usually can be determined when pushing the piston back
    to fit the new pads.

    Calipers have a finite life, IIRC, this car is fairly old. Might be
    time.

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