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  1. #1
    Dr. David Zatz

    Default FAQ, Part 2/6

    Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part2
    Posting-Frequency: 100 days
    Last-modified: 2011/10/5
    Version: 4.95

    This section is generally revised every 440 days.

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    While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
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    Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
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    *************************CONTENTS***************** ************
    What should I do...
    1. ... before I post?
    2. ... (removed)
    3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
    4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)

    Oil Filter Discussion

    List of All Engines Since 1966
    1. Guide to V-8s
    2. New transmission designations decoded (new!)

    List of All Body Styles Since 1966

    ************************************************** *********************

    1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.

    2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the
    dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
    it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.

    3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
    relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).

    4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
    at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
    anyone by going overboard.

    ************************************************** *********************
    ************************************************** *********************

    (Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this -
    Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!)

    * The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like
    1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
    2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
    wuth them.
    3. Service manager.
    4. 800 992 1997.
    5. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE)
    6. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
    AND needed.

    * Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no"
    for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler sometimes
    helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; they are
    generally defensive; and they have a strange impression that all dealers
    are wonderful and honest while most customers are scum. The Customer Center
    often don't know what they're talking about, so elaboration may help; they
    are not car people or particularly well paid. If all else fails, call back
    and speak to someone else. Always take down their name for your reference!

    * Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer
    codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.

    * Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB
    (technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which
    may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often
    fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.

    * Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
    nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
    parties less angry.

    * Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corparte headquarters does tend to back
    the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you
    more than you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service
    writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes. [And sometimes
    it helps to know who the good service writers are.]

    * Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a
    pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer
    will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!

    * If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
    another dealer. Or try the newsgroup.

    * If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
    etc., get another dealer.

    * Consider service BEFORE buying the car when you choose a dealer. Also
    consider asking the salesman who the best service writer is.

    * If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer
    Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, the final word at
    Chrysler. Others can overrule them but THEY (generally) WILL NOT. Some reps are
    good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in
    some areas are exceedingly sensitive and need to be handled with kid
    gloves. (See message about service writers above -- they can often get
    action where ordinary mortals cannot).

    * Note: if, as Continental Auto Body (of Wyckoff, New Jersey) did to my
    car, your dealer should get your car into an accident, immediatly retain
    a lawyer and find out what your options are. Examine the damage
    personally before they have a chance to cover it up and lie about it.

    ****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)

    courtesy of

    * Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: May not work in
    states with a predominantly anti-government/libertarian attitude.

    1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
    will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
    usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
    Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
    to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!

    2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this
    group have been mixed.

    * Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
    will know the people at the zone office and will try to
    talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
    first move, they are not the right lawyer.

    * Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will probably get a credit
    (buy-back). You will usually not get all of your money back. Chrysler
    tends to follow state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use
    before the first lemon-type complaint. This is normal and OK.

    * Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.

    *Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter
    to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center, Box 302, Centerline, MI
    48015. It may not help you but it might help someone else! (Actually, it
    may not help anyone else, either).

    * If in a dispute with a five-star dealer, feel free to return your
    customer satisfaction survey with very negative ratings. Dan Adams
    assures us that these surveys are taken very seriously. Be aware that
    all surveys are also given to the dealers - not just in aggregate form,
    but the individual surveys - so be careful what you say, don't go
    overboard. For more details on what happens to your surveys, see

    * If you get into a dispute with an auto body shop, check your state's
    laws to see what regulations and rules might be applicable.

    ************************************************** **********************



    2.2/2.5 turbo:
    -- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections

    Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
    -- clean the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
    -- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
    -- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working
    -- check/replace vacuum tubes regularly
    -- make sure float level is adjusted well

    Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
    -- Problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
    brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was recommended
    by Dan Stern. There have been malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5 caps).
    -- We've seen an aftermarket cap replacement that allows for use of
    conventional, longer-life wires.

    2.7 V6, pre-2006: use synthetic oil and maintain the PCV system to avoid sludge


    4-speed automatic
    -- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid.
    -- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY).
    -- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
    -- Check for TSBs and have the computer updated if
    -- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance
    with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended!
    -- DO NOT USE DEXRON! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK!
    -- If you have a problem, check the allpar forums and try getting
    second opinions. Mechanics, including dealership mechanics, are
    quick to demand that you replace or rebuilt these things even when
    the problems are minor! Even honest mechanics are jaded by past
    -- If you DO have a problem, make SURE the first thing they check
    is the computer error code. Most problems appear to be sensor issues
    rather than mechanical breakdowns. That's the difference between
    $100 and $2500!

    -- Often, the ABS light goes on due to dirt in the sensors. Try to
    troubleshoot it yourself using the engine-code method.

    ******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************
    Transferred to Web site,
    ************************************************** *********

    From Lloyd Parker, updated since then:

    **** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:

    Lots of info on most of these engines is at

    * denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles
    (some are still used elsewhere, e.g. 2.2 in China, 2.4 in Russia)

    4 cylinders

    1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
    1.4 (CC/Rover) - BMW Mini
    1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
    1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
    1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
    1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
    1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
    1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
    1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
    1.6 (CC/Rover) - Mini and export Neons
    1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
    1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
    1.8 (CC) -- Neons outside the US
    1.8 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
    2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
    2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
    2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
    2.0 SOHC -- Neon
    2.0 DOHC -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
    2.0 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
    2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
    Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
    Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class,
    Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
    2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
    Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
    Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
    2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
    2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
    2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
    2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
    2.4 DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT
    2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T
    2.4 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, Compass, Patriot, more (2006+)
    2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
    Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
    LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions
    2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
    Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
    2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
    2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
    LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
    2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)

    2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
    different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
    Neon 2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
    Chrysler families: 2.2/2.5, 2.0/2.4

    2.5 (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
    2.7 LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring
    3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
    Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
    3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
    3.2 LH series (1998+)
    3.3 New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
    3.5 LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) -
    Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new

    3.6* "Pentastar" / "Phoenix" V6, see
    3.7* V-6 for trucks (2002+)
    3.8 New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Wrangler, minivans, etc - bored 3.3
    3.9 trucks (3.9 is based on the 318)
    4.0 enlarged, modified version of the 3.8 (minivans, etc)

    MMC 2.5 and 3.0 are related

    The SLANT SIX (share basic design)

    2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
    3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
    3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
    Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
    Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer


    (flat head) - various sizes - ended in late 1950s for cars
    215 - Australian Valiants
    245 - Australian Valiants
    265 - Australian Valiants
    4.0 (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
    4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler

    Families: 215/245/265, 4.0/4.2, flat heads

    The Australian straight sixes was built on a basic design intended for
    use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to
    Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had
    hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be
    called a Hemi Six-Pack.


    4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
    4.7* -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), next-gen Rams
    5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
    Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
    Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
    Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
    Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon,
    pickups and SUVs thru 2001.
    5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner,
    5.7 Hemi* (345) -- Pickups, LX cars, Grand Cherokee, Durango
    5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
    Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
    Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002.
    (345) -- Hemi Magnum engine for trucks, next-gen large cars
    5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
    5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
    6.1 Hemi - SRT8 models pre 2011
    6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
    Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
    Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
    6.4* (392) Hemi - SRT8 models 2011+
    6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
    Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
    7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
    Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
    7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
    Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
    Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird

    8.0 V-10 -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)
    Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002. Aluminum continues.
    New version expected soon for 2013 Viper


    Gary Howell clarifies:

    ** Small blocks (except new 4.7) **
    273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside.
    LA stands for "Lightweight-casting A"
    [There is now an A/LA page at]

    273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
    318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
    340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
    360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore

    The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
    outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but
    share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads
    and intake are different.

    277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
    301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
    318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke

    The Magnum 318 and 360 engines are LA engines with different cylnder
    heads. The blocks are physically the same as the earier LA engines,
    except the oil
    passage for the shaft mounted rockers is not drilled, because the Magnum
    engines oil through the push rods. The boss is there if you need to use
    the old style heads.

    ** Big Blocks **

    There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and
    the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.
    [RB engine page:]

    B: 350, 361, 383, 400
    RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440

    All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
    engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. You'll notice that
    the 383 is listed in two differnent places. There were two different
    383s; the RB is very rare, only produced 64. The 350 was only produced
    in 1958.

    ************************************************** *********

    (Courtesy Daniel Adams)

    On the new transmissions (e.g. 41TE):

    4 amount of forward gears (from 3 to 6 at this point!)
    1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest)
    T or R transaxle or rear wheel drive
    e or h electronic or hydraulic

    There are two five-speed automatics: a Chrysler-designed unit based on the
    727, and a Mercedes-designed unit.

    62TE six-speed automatic is similar to the four-speed car automatics and
    actually has seven forward speeds including a kickdown gear.

    Truck automatics are generally 727-based (unlike minivan autos.)

    Eight and nine speed automatics were engineered by ZF and will be made by

    Transmission list with details on many types of transmission:

    ************************************************** *********

    Because the list of car body types was getting rather confusing - there are
    far too
    many models that jumped from one platform to another - we have taken this
    out of the
    FAQ and refer you instead to full, informative lists of cars by body type at: (rear drive and trucks/Jeeps) (front drive).

    For an example of the difficulty, the early Barracuda was a modified
    Valiant, hence an A-body; later it
    moved to a platform shared only with the Challenger (E-body). The New
    Yorker was a K-car, C-body, and several one year sharing two
    different bodies (not unlike the Stratus whose sedan and coupe versions
    were built on totally different platforms, made by two different companies,
    in the same years!). The Fury moved from C to B body in the late 1970s.
    There are many others... cars were resized, transformed, dropped, and
    brought back with the same names.

    › See More: FAQ, Part 1/6

  2. #2
    Dr. David Zatz

    Default FAQ, Part 1/6

    Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
    Posting-Frequency: 45 days
    Last-modified: 2011/10/4
    Version: 6.4

    This section is generally revised every 300 days.
    - - - - - - - - - - - -
    IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to
    Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
    Instead, go to and provide feedback from there.
    Thank you.
    - - - - - - - - - - - -
    * Important Note * Chrysler generally refers to the full Chrysler
    Corporation (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth, DeSoto, Eagle, Simca, Rootes
    Group, Sunbeam, Singer, Hillman, Humber, AMC, etc).

    The author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or
    omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information
    or opinions contained herein.
    Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
    The maintainer does not claim to be an authority.
    Information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
    given to the writers and maintainer; and it is not published in
    book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
    maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
    copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
    formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
    (David Zatz - contact me via
    - - - - - - - - - - - -
    The latest copy may be obtained from which links to
    - - - - - - - - - - - -


    Part 1 -
    Related Resources (groups, Web sites, recall/TSB info)
    Before You Post, Read This!
    Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions
    Up and Coming
    The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale

    Part 2
    What should I do...
    1. ... before I post?
    2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
    3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
    Oil Filter Discussion
    List of All Engines Since 1966
    1. Guide to V-8s
    List of All Body Styles Since 1966

    Part 3 (to be discontinued or changed)
    Engine Codes
    Classic Car Troubleshooting
    Reading codes without a scan tool
    (computer controlled, carbureted engines)
    Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.

    Part 4: Discontinued

    Part 5: Discontinued

    Part 6: Discontinued

    Related FAQs: Neon - maintained by the Neon mailing list.

    ************************************************** **********************

    1. Check the FAQ.

    2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common.
    Show off your intelligence and maturity.

    3. Do not confuse Chrysler with your dealership,
    the zone office, or the guy who picks up the phone.

    4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read
    the relevant parts of the FAQ (1, 2) and the Web site.

    5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is
    to respond to many posts. However, all companies sometimes make
    lemons or fail to treat customers well. Try to restrain anger.

    ************************************************** **********************
    - Related Resources: - massive owner/enthusiast site
    * Models, history, repair, performance info

    Phone Numbers
    1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service - USA
    1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada
    1-800-255-9877 adapting new vehicles for people w/disabilities.
    1-800-626-1523 Mopar catalog of manuals, videos, books (free)
    1-800-677-5782 local 5-Star Dealer locator
    Mopar Performance Tech Line: 1-888-528-HEMI.
    Hours are Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 5 PM ET.

    Other Resources

    Plymouth Owners Club (Plymouth & Fargo)
    203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220
    Award winning magazine

    WPC Restorers' Club (Walter P Chrysler Club)
    Also a good magazine!

    NCPC -- National Chrysler Products Club

    Chrysler Canada Customer Service:
    Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621
    Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6

    Chrysler Europe NV
    Woluwedal 106-108, 1200 Brussels, Belgium - Europe

    The Chrysler Historical Foundation, at 12501 Chrysler
    Freeway, CIMS 410-11-21, Highland Park, MI 48288,
    can supply you with service manuals, build records,
    and stock photos for a reasonable fee (1967 or older cars).

    Walter P. Chrysler Museum:

    Chrysler Employees Motorsports Assoc:

    Valiant-Dart-Duster-etc series,

    others in*

    Chrysler was the first make in the* hierarchy, but
    Volkswagen was the first make to have a Big Seven newsgroup.
    Chrysler beat both GM and Ford to having a Big Seven newsgroup!
    The first request for discussion was filed by David Zatz on
    July 28, 1994.

    ************************************************** **********************
    Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to
    Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, Bohdan Bodnar, and Dan Stern.

    *************************CONTENTS***************** ************

    This is divided into corporate and car sections.


    1. What does DCX mean? DaimlerChrysler

    DCX was DaimlerChrysler's stock symbol. The company was
    renamed Daimler in 2007 after the former Chrysler Group
    was sold to Cerberus. From Cerberus, Chrysler Group LLC
    went into bankruptcy; its "good" assets were purchased by
    a new company majority-owned by a pension fund and controlled
    by Fiat SpA.

    2. What's the deal with the government bailout?

    Chrysler went into Chapter 11 bankruptcy and in a "fast track" deal,
    the U.S. and Canadian governments, and (via trading pension obligations)
    the union VEBA, financed the creation of a new company which acquired
    most of Chrysler's core assets.

    Fiat was, after various landmarks, to get 35% of Chrysler. The
    majority is owned by the VEBA in exchange for billions of dollars of
    unfunded pension and benefits obligations; the VEBA has no voting rights.
    The U.S. and Canadian governments later sold their own shares to Fiat,
    which is expected to purchase the remainder when they can.

    Fiat has provided its small car and diesel technologies, and its
    dimensions for compact and midsized cars, which will be used by Chrysler
    as the basis for a wide range of vehicles. Chrysler started searching for
    an acceptable, flexible "platform" for C and D class (compact and midsize)
    cars in 2007. Fiat's was developed at great expense and is seen as ideal
    (after being adjusted to American widths).

    Other key Fiat technologies are small engines, diesel car engines,
    small dual clutch automatics, and MultiAir, an air-activated variable
    valve lift and timing system that works on individual cylinders, one at
    a time. It is more expensive than Chrysler's variable cam technology but
    a little more effective.

    The end result will be a largely independent Chrysler, which contributes
    its large vehicle products and technologies to Fiat in return for Fiat's
    small car (and large van) products and technologies. This saved the
    government billions of dollars in unemployment, prevented disastrous
    supplier bankruptcies that would have knocked out Ford and GM, avoided
    the loss of a large part of America's manufacturing base, and overall was
    a win-win given the alternative.

    Unlike Mercedes, Fiat sells Chrysler cars under its labels (and
    Chrysler's) in Europe and South America, filling in Fiat's own gaps.
    These include Fiat Freemont (Dodge Journey), Lancia Thema (Chrysler 300),
    Lancia Voyager (Town & Country), and Lancia Flavia (200).

    3. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? 800-992-1997

    4. What is Chrysler's e-mail address?

    Contact Chrysler via a Web form - see "contact us" on their
    brand web sites (e.g.,,

    5. What about the merger / takeover back in 1998 that ended the old
    Chrysler Corporation?

    Chrysler execs got about $60 million in personal profit.
    Daimler bought Chrysler, doubling their profits, then
    reportedly siphoned off Chrysler profits via accounting
    tricks to make Mercedes look more profitable.
    Daimler spent Chrysler's $8-10 billion war chest.
    Only one Chrysler rep was left on the board from the original four.
    Plants were sold. Decontenting to fix Mercedes' losses became noticeable.
    For the final outcome, see question 1.

    6. What about building cars in China?
    for the original Cerberus plan, which is dead now. Chrysler and
    Fiat still plan to build cars in China - for sale within China. Jeep was
    one of the first automakers to have a Chinese plant, but it was taken by
    Mercedes during the DCX years. The China-car plan was replaced by the use
    of small Fiats, some of which are built in Mexico. Others are to be
    built in the US and Europe.

    7. What's the deal with Chrysler and Mitsubishi?

    At one time Chrysler owned a large share of Mitsubishi and was planning to
    buy the full company, the idea buying to take advantage of Mitsubishi's
    small car prowess and manufacturing technologies. Some cars were jointly
    developed, including Avenger/Sebring and Caliber. Chrylser lead
    both, though they used newer Mitsubishi basic platforms.
    Partnerships with Mitsubishi have ended.

    9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings?

    See the discussion at

    10. How can I get help for problems Chrysler won't fix?

    See the discussion at
    Keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs.
    Visit ... keep trying and keep your cool.

    11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot?

    Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes until the late 70s, but
    sales kept going up and down (usually down). Peugeot bought them
    and sold the Omni as the Talbot. They had Simca/Sunbeam engines
    (Lloyd Parker). The Centura sold in Australia was a Simca (Dan Stern).
    See for many details.
    These cars and the former Rootes Group brands, such as Singer,
    Sunbeam, Hillman, and Humber, are covered by


    14. Should I use high octane gas?

    Only if your car was designed for it (see your owner's manual) or if
    you've advanced the timing or your engine is knocking. According to
    Chrysler and others, many high-octane gasolines have a low
    driveability index, which can cause long cold start times,
    warm-up sags, hesitations, and driveway die outs. Under the law,
    ALL gasolines sold in the US must meet certain standards for
    detergent; if you really need to "drive your engine clean" get a
    bottle of Techron or Mopar engine cleaner.

    Chrysler turbo engines have all been designed to use premium, as do
    SRT engines use premium. Most others run on regular. Some 3.5s run
    on midgrade.

    20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50)

    The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock) sez: "Independent labs as well
    as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a
    verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless."
    The Gasoline FAQ says most gasoline additives are useless.
    Others have weighed in on that score, and DuPont sued to prevent
    Slick 50 from using Teflon (unsuccessfully).

    22. Did the first-gen Mini really use a modified Neon engine?

    Yes, it's a smaller version of the Neon engine designed for European
    Neons and a small Chrysler that never materialized (due to Daimler-Benz).
    The factory was a joint venture with Rover.

    23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?

    Note: No current Chrysler has a distributor or throttle body injection.

    * DIS means distributorless ignition system. No rotor!
    * SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two.
    * EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following:
    * TBI - throttle body injection; one or two injectors
    spray fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders.
    * MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in
    the intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. Smoother than
    TBI, with more power *and* better mileage.
    * SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only
    fires when the fuel can go straight through the valve and into
    the cylinder instead of splashing onto a closed valve.
    * Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder.
    This is mainly used in diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!)
    -- Note: all current Chrysler products use DIS and returnless
    SMPI. Mitsubishi is pioneering direct injection for gas engines.
    The current system is coil on plug ignition which provides a separate coil
    for each spark plug, located right on top of the plug, for the best control
    and spark power.

    25. What kind of oil should I use?

    For the old 2.2 and 2.5 (1980s-1990s), 5W30 is best for winter
    or year-round in mild climates - but check your owner's manual
    to be sure. (Use the manual instead of asking your dealer.)
    Synthetics seem to have a major advantage in cold weather especially
    if you do a lot of cold starts. Oil grade is very important for
    the Hemi due to its MDS.


    For my car, recommended oil changes are at 6 months / 7,500
    miles. I change it at 6 months or 6,000 miles. GM says many owners
    do not need to change oil until 10,000 miles! If you are concerned,
    use synthetic and change at 6,000.

    26. What kind of engine do I have ???

    Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your
    vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals. The emissions sticker
    will tell you the displacement of the engine.

    27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one?

    Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs
    and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by Chrysler; some restrict it to
    high performance only. It is the name of Chrysler's parts division.
    Mopar stands for MOtor PARts. MoPar is a registered trademark.

    28. Which were the Diamond Star models?

    Diamond Star models are those built by the Diamond Star (DSM)
    plant in Illinois. This was a joint venture but is now 100%
    MMC. The Stealth, Colt, Sapparo, Ram 50, and FWD Challenger
    were re-badged Mitsubishis made in Japan. There are no current cars sold
    by Chrysler from the Diamond Star plant for from Mitsubishi.

    29. What are the K-cars?

    Herb DaSilva:
    ... Chrysler used the components on the Aries/Reliant (K) in many of
    its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance
    between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension
    design. Most K variants can swap struts (H is an exception).
    K derivates include: Laser (pre-88)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance
    (P), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan (pre-90)/Lancer
    (H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan
    (AA). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan.
    First-generation minivans are also loosely based on the K.

    These cars are collectively referred to as EEKs.
    There is a mailing list for them at

    30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?

    See Part 3 of this FAQ.

    32. How often should I change my trans fluid?

    Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that
    the vehicle is operated *primarily* in one of those conditions.


    Even some 3-speed transmissions are NOT compatible
    with Dexron - read your manual !!!

    34. What kind of gas should I use?

    Use the octane level your owner's manual recommends and the brand
    you have had good luck with. If your engine knocks adjust the timing.

    35. No longer relevant; deleted.

    36. What about lemons?

    To quote the FAQ --
    every auto manufacturer has manufactured a lemon or two; even Honda
    admits to this. Please don't waste everyone's time by announcing to
    the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so
    all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a
    car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than
    useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little
    or no useful information.

    37. Are K&N filters worth it?

    David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters.
    The paper filters were respectable, but the K&N and Accell filters
    flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters
    of the same size. The K&N passed less particulate matter than the
    paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat
    of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better.

    K&N filters change your engine sound, rarely need replacement,
    and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you may not notice much
    difference unless you have a high-efficiency exhaust and performance
    engine. There has been debate over the actual filtering ability of
    these filters; the power boost on TBI cars is negligible.
    So. . .probably not.

    38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS? [Legacy question]

    Some sources recommend more frequent fluid changes, e.g. every 2-3 years.
    Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends! Fully
    depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids.
    The primary source of failure is dirt in the sensors, which can
    easily be cleaned.

    39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK?

    Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler
    transmissions are NOT compatible with standard fluid! ATF+3
    is usually the best one to use with automatic transmissions before
    2001, ATF+4 after.

    THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue.

    You should really visit if you have
    a four-speed or five-speed Chrysler automatic. Even most three-speed
    automatics are required to use ATF+4.

    CHECK YOUR MANUAL because recent changes mean that the specifications
    for fluid may change, especially with the new dual clutch automatics,
    eight-speeds, and nine-speeds.

    40. Are Chrysler transmissions still junk? [Legacy question]

    Not if you use the right transmission fluid. By the way,
    the 545 is actually based on the old, reliable 727.
    See #39 and Part 2 of the FAQ.

    42. Aren't Chryslers junk? / Did Mercedes improve Chrysler quality? [Legacy

    Chrysler was working on quality before the takeover, yielding the
    PT Cruiser - which is beating the Honda Civic on quality
    surveys - and the Jeep Liberty, which is also doing very well. Chrysler
    has been making great strides in quality. Mercedes, if anything,
    damaged those efforts by emphasizing an "expert" approach rather than a
    Toyota-style inclusive/participatory approach to quality.

    Look at Mercedes' quality reports, then at Chrysler's. Generally,
    Chrysler quality TROUNCES Mercedes. So how did Mercedes help?

    43. Engine sludge - what's the deal? [Legacy question]

    Early 2.7 liter engines in some models had a more than normal
    occurence of oil degredation resulting in a thick substance
    called "sludge" which can cause major engine damage. This problem
    also afflected some Toyotas, Hondas, and other makes. If you have a
    2.7 made before 2004, you may want to use synthetic oil (which can
    also lengthen your oil change intervals). This is rare but nasty.
    The problem appears to have been resolved as of 2005.

    86. All other questions.

    Check the computer codes or replace the ballast resistor (if you have one!).

    ******************* UP AND COMING ******************

    This section has been replaced by

    *********************** AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID **********************

    Many people have destroyed their transmissions by using the wrong fluid.
    Some people have had bad transmission problems go away when they changed
    the fluid. Follow Chrysler's recommendations. Ignore the alternative fluid
    (as in "if Mopar is unavailable, use...").

    See for details.

    *********************** NEWSGROUP CHARTER ***********
    (This section never changes. The newsgroup was created around 1994.)

    - The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER

    COVERAGE. was set up to cover issues related
    to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto,
    Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp.

    BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be
    discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably
    restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of
    the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable.

    Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality,
    lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and
    flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged.
    Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to
    generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this
    newsgroup may be maintained.

    RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners
    to support each other, save money, and maximize enjoyment of their autos.

    As in, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel
    unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information
    from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles.

    This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about
    cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing
    those more into the products to exchange their views and advice.

    In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler
    owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and
    advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to
    find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's
    dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor.

    Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be
    aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a
    20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of
    plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as
    ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit
    they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will
    often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in
    Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save
    time, money, and trouble.

    CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve
    their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In
    addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to
    discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed
    information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive
    atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful
    as the Mopar mailing list or the group have been, while
    making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and
    Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is.

    FAQ maintained by David Zatz who works at

    (end of FAQ part 1)

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